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Elevation: 4,917 ft
GPS: 38.326, -109.889 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,372 total, 31/month
Shared By: Noah McKelvin on Mar 29, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The Pixie Stick stands tall in a very remote part of Monument Basin. It is one of the most incredible pinnacles to stand atop of and a very grand adventure. I wanted to include it on MP mainly because I strongly think it needs to be. The rock is sort of like a virgin type of the Fisher Towers rock. This formation has had 3 known ascents which speaks for it's difficulty.

It includes two pitches, no bolts, no pins, no fixed anchors. (Due to Canyonlands regulations) This is also a candidate to go free by someone who loves free climbing on Fisher type terrain. It would be scary but doable. The summit makes Standing Rocks summit seem boring. Super wild. Props to Paul Gagner and Dougald MacDonald for linking it all together.

Take your time on the crux second pitch. I'm not so good at grading things but let's keep it real and call it C3. Enjoy!
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

White Rim Road. Get on down into the Standing Rock Basin. Hike around for a ways until you arrive at the base and wonder where the route is.

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Thought the roof on pitch one was harder than 9+. Did this a few years back and hiked in from the rim - top of the wingate that is - Grand View Point. Makes for a near full day and it's a good way to do other towers down there if your not up for the drive. This "stick" has a great out there feeling to it, semi-involved approach, killer summit and hardly ever climbed - all the right stuff. Jun 24, 2014
David A
Stockholm, Sweden
David A   Stockholm, Sweden
The first pitch goes free pretty easily, with a short 5.9+ roof crux with bomber gear. Take care and climb gingerly for the rest of it. Second pitch is dicey aid on small things...bring the smallest cams you got! And don't forget the Lowe balls! Awesome summit...one of the best. Jun 12, 2014

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