Elevation: 4,200 ft
GPS: 32.372, -110.905 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,089 total · 136/month
Shared By: Brian Benedon on Nov 11, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd
Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30 Details

Description

Backcountry Desert Trad climbing.

am shade

Getting There

3 miles up Pima Canyon, on the right and up the hill. The dam is 3.1 mi.

Stay on the trail until you have almost walked past the crag, (it is about 20min up the hill, it tapers down on the right side and has a huge dihedral capped by a roof)  when you are below the black water streak, you are on the opposite side of the trail and will have just gained some elevation, then turn right onto a very discreet climbers trail and cross Pima canyon and head up the small drainage that is formed by the big black water streak. ( if you get to the metates in the canyon bottom you went just little too far, head down canyon for about 3 minutes.) Head up the drain for just a few minutes, Leave the drain and diagonal up and right, passing a large bolder, to the base of Psycho Man.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: OCB Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at OCB

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Mr. Crowley
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
War Pigs
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
N.I.B.
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Miracle Man
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 7
Psycho Man
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Sweet Leaf
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Wicked World
Trad 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Cabeza del Murcielago
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Crowley
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
War Pigs
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
N.I.B.
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Miracle Man
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Psycho Man
 7
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Sweet Leaf
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Wicked World
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Cabeza del Murcielago
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in OCB »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Northwest
Sunny Roughly 1pm to 5pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: The routes are in the shade in the am and can be cold in the winter. The sun moves around sooner in the early fall but some routes and dihedrals face north. The hike out is the only real down fall when it is hot.

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos