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Routes in OCB

Believer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Don't Know T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Into the Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Dolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miracle Man S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Crowley T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
N.I.B. S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psycho Man T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suicide Solution T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
War Pigs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wicked World T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Elevation: 4,200 ft
GPS: 32.379, -110.927 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,723 total · 47/month
Shared By: brian benedon on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30 Details

Description

Backcountry Desert Trad climbing.

am shade

Getting There

3 miles up Pima Canyon, on the right and up the hill. The dam is 3.1 mi.

Stay on the trail until you have almost walked past the crag, and are below the black water streak, you will have just gained some elevation, then turn right and cross Pima canyon and head up the small drainage that is formed by the big black water streak. Leave the drain and diagonal up and right, passing a large bolder, to the base of Psycho Man. There are discrete cairns.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at OCB

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Mr. Crowley
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Miracle Man
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Psycho Man
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Crowley
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Miracle Man
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Psycho Man
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in OCB »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Northwest
Sunny Roughly 1pm to 5pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: The routes are in the shade in the am and can be cold in the winter. The sun moves around sooner in the early fall but some routes and dihedrals face north. The hike out is the only real down fall when it is hot.

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
brian benedon
tucson
brian benedon   tucson

To approach the Ozzy Cliff Bands
Park at the Pima Canyon trailhead, at the end of Magee rd. in the Catalina Mountains, Pusch Ridge Wilderness. Tucson AZ. Take 1st Ave north, pass Ina Rd, it becomes Christy, then it tees into Magee Rd. the Trail Head is on the right. The gate opens @ 5am. There is no camping w/in the first ½ mi. To park over night you need a Pima Co parks and recreation permit; 887-6000.

This is a popular hiking trail. Please observe low impact backcountry ethics in this area.
Snakes, scorpions, wasps, and other desert dwellers occupy this area. The climbing is in the shade most of the day depending on the time of year, and on how early you get there, it can get cold, and hot. Bring lots of water and a change of clothes.

Discovered in 92, the OCB saw its first route, Psycho Man on xmas eve, 1997, one week before the Black Sabbath reunion tour. Most routes were established ground up with natural belays, and required walking off.

A 60 m rope is needed to rap or lower, watch your rope ends! The tall section is 210'
Rack; Doubles from 0 TCU thur #4 Camalot, nuts, 7 draws and runners.(at-least)

I'd like to quote an old timer, JD, who said to me," this aint no practice area, this the the real thing".
The OCB is Backcountry Traditional style strenuous full body climbing. The ratings may seam a bit sand bagged if you are not good at climbing crack technique. Pay attention out there.

Thanks to many friends who helped with this area, ST, SM, BL.JC,JD,KMG,JMw,SS,DD,EH, AS and others. Nov 11, 2013
brian benedon
tucson
brian benedon   tucson
There are 19 established routes at the OCB, and many more possibilities, especially in the harder grades. Most routes are obvious natural lines. Routes range from 5.4 25' thru 5.11 and 220' with the majority of the routes in the hard 5.9 range. Some second ascents await. Fall is the season. Sep 30, 2014
Dan W.
Tucson, AZ
Dan W.   Tucson, AZ
Thanks for all the hard Brian! Looking forward to checking these out. Nov 5, 2014

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