Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: BBn SKT 97
Page Views: 801 total · 13/month
Shared By: brian benedon on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30 Details

Description

Psycho Man is the wide crack in the left facing Dihedral capped by the giant roof. Visible from the trail 2.75 miles in.

Protection

P1 7 draws, 0 TCU-#3 Camalot.
P2-single run of cams and 3 or 4 #4 Camalots.
We originally climbed it with a rack of doubles, but 3 or 4 #4 Camalots are nice to have.

Photos

greg k
 
greg k  
 
only sampled the 1st pitch so far and it was excellent. look forward to getting on the crack above. thanks again brian & friends: you guys found and established some real gems Nov 11, 2013
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Thing looks burly, *yikes* I'd err on the side of 4 #4s.

Fine job establishing all these great routes guys! Nov 12, 2013
brian benedon
tucson
  5.10+
brian benedon   tucson
  5.10+
thank you, had a great time


Nov 13, 2013
Dan W.
Tucson, AZ
Dan W.   Tucson, AZ
I only used a few small pieces on the first pitch to mix in with the bolts. The belay uses one monster bolt and a number 2 or 3 C4. I only used two BD #4's on the second pitch, although tricky there is plenty of opportunity for smaller gear. It was still a little loose and dirty but i thought it was fantastic! Make sure the leader has a camera to take a picture of the follower on the 2 2nd pitch, for what is an amazing photogenic opportunity! The second rap anchors are straight down from the top but somewhat hidden by a small roof. Thanks Brian for sharing this and for all the hard work! Dec 4, 2014
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.11 PG13
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.11 PG13
Pitch 2 is worth a 3.5 mile approach carrying many large cams. This is perhaps the most Sedona-esque pitch in all the Catalinas! I am grateful to have followed Andy's heroic link of 1&2. Now I know to bring 4 4’s and 2-3 5’s plus double .75-3 before tangling with that monster on lead.... Pitch 1 is .11 and a total sandbag at 10+. Also seemed like would be a touch bold on lead. What a badass route! Thanks BB! Dec 11, 2018
Jon.R  
3 #4's and a single #5 is plenty for the second pitch and allows climbing the entire corner on toprope with some mild bumping Dec 17, 2018
brian benedon
tucson
  5.10+
brian benedon   tucson
  5.10+
We originally climbed the route with only two #4s, walking them up, but the more the better for sure. Dec 17, 2018
brian benedon
tucson
  5.10+
brian benedon   tucson
  5.10+
Andy climbed the entire length of the route in one pitch with a 70 Dec 18, 2018