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Routes in OCB

Believer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Don't Know T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Into the Void T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Dolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miracle Man S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Crowley T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
N.I.B. S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psycho Man T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suicide Solution T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
War Pigs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wicked World T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: BBn SKT 97
Page Views: 646 total, 13/month
Shared By: brian benedon on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Restrictions January 1 - April 30 Details

Description

Psycho Man is the wide crack in the left facing Dihedral capped by the giant roof. Visible from the trail 2.75 miles in.

Protection

P1 7 draws, 0 TCU-#3 Camalot.
P2-single run of cams and 3 or 4 #4 Camalots.
We originally climbed it with a rack of doubles, but 3 or 4 #4 Camalots are nice to have.

Photos

Dan W.
Tucson, AZ
Dan W.   Tucson, AZ
I only used a few small pieces on the first pitch to mix in with the bolts. The belay uses one monster bolt and a number 2 or 3 C4. I only used two BD #4's on the second pitch, although tricky there is plenty of opportunity for smaller gear. It was still a little loose and dirty but i thought it was fantastic! Make sure the leader has a camera to take a picture of the follower on the 2 2nd pitch, for what is an amazing photogenic opportunity! The second rap anchors are straight down from the top but somewhat hidden by a small roof. Thanks Brian for sharing this and for all the hard work! Dec 4, 2014
thank you, had a great time


Nov 13, 2013
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Thing looks burly, *yikes* I'd err on the side of 4 #4s.

Fine job establishing all these great routes guys! Nov 12, 2013
greg k
 
greg k  
 
only sampled the 1st pitch so far and it was excellent. look forward to getting on the crack above. thanks again brian & friends: you guys found and established some real gems Nov 11, 2013