The Columns North Climbing
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GPS: |
32.48462, -106.79867 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 801 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Forrest Wilcox on Jul 9, 2013 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Not open to public access, NMSU land
Details
The columns are lcoated on property owned by NMSU and used for research studies. No public access available at this time, although if you could find out who to contact at NMSU you might be able to get permissions.
Description
Approach the North Columns by walking up the left side of the formation to a large flat ledge below the climbs. Most of the climbs are cracks but there is a bolted face climb. One does need to lead something to set the TRs.
The climbs from left to right.
1) approach pitch (5.7): this pitch gets one to the top of the cracks. TRs can be set here.
2) crack #5 variation (5.8): this is the left portion of the Y.
3) crack #5 (5.9): this is a great hand crack, follow the right leg of the Y. There is a fixed anchor here.
4) crack #4 (5.10): follow a shallow crack weakness and go over the left portion of the roof (large cam needed if led).
5) crack #3 (5.9): follow the crack weakness and traverse right and around the roof (large cam needed if led).
6) crack #2 (5.8): start as in crack #1 but go left up the face to the top.
7) crack #1 (Baskin Robbins) (5.8): climb the large crack (chimney & off width) in the corner but stay in the crack to the top. There is a fixed anchor here. Go through a short tunnel to the start of the climb.
8) bolted arete (5.9): go up the blunt arete to the right of crack #1 and share anchor with crack #1. This was an old TR.
The climbs from left to right.
1) approach pitch (5.7): this pitch gets one to the top of the cracks. TRs can be set here.
2) crack #5 variation (5.8): this is the left portion of the Y.
3) crack #5 (5.9): this is a great hand crack, follow the right leg of the Y. There is a fixed anchor here.
4) crack #4 (5.10): follow a shallow crack weakness and go over the left portion of the roof (large cam needed if led).
5) crack #3 (5.9): follow the crack weakness and traverse right and around the roof (large cam needed if led).
6) crack #2 (5.8): start as in crack #1 but go left up the face to the top.
7) crack #1 (Baskin Robbins) (5.8): climb the large crack (chimney & off width) in the corner but stay in the crack to the top. There is a fixed anchor here. Go through a short tunnel to the start of the climb.
8) bolted arete (5.9): go up the blunt arete to the right of crack #1 and share anchor with crack #1. This was an old TR.
Weather Averages
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