The Principality Rock Climbing
Routes in The Principality
|5.7 Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Blue (Binochet) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Divine Right S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Jehovah Hireh S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Kiss my Quaking Aspen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Mano-y-mono S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Surprise surprise S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|There S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|To Hear S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|GPS:||37.7, -112.692 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||2,377 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||ZachBradford on Jun 22, 2011|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionThe Principality is a perfect summer area for the 5.12 climber. The rock is a high quality and very compact welded tuff. The routes range from 35 to 65 feet in length and tend to require strong fingers and good footwork. The area offer several very fine test pieces but does not offer very much in terms of easier climbing.
It is agreed the grades in the guidebook are sandbagged a bit, So if your grade seeking be prepared to work for it.
The area is still very much untapped and holds a lost of potential for future development.
Getting ThereAbout a mile from panguitch lake their is a large meadow if you look north across the meadow you will see the cliffs standing on the hill side surrounded by trees.
From Cedar City, take Highway 14 East to Highway 148 (this is also the turn for Cedar Breaks National Monument). Drive through Cedar Breaks (no fee required if you're just driving through) and make a right (east) on Highway 143. Take Hwy. 143 for 13 miles take a left onto bunker creek road (081) their is a small sign labeled 'bunker creek' just before the turn off. Follow the dirt road after .08 miles you will pass a rusting flatbed trailer. Some low clearance viehicles park here and hike the remainder of the way (1.3 mi). The road is still passable for most vehicles until you turn away from the meadow towards the mountains. If you are not in a truck or SUV park well off the road before you get to the trees. If you have the clearance continue up the rough road. There is a parking area on the left side of the road 2.1 miles from the pavement. (large enough for two cars, roughly boxed by logs.)
Once you arrive at the parking area head east back down the road to the clearing filled with fallen trees(50 feet). Look for the tree limb lined trail that switch backs up the hill. after 300 yard you should come to a well marked junction one heading up to the upper tier the other heading slightly downhill to the lower tier.
(Less complicated than it sounds)
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season