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Areas in Luna Park

East Side 10 / 35 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 49
West Side 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 6,829 ft
GPS: 33.496, -107.415 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Feb 10, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

Luna Park, located eight miles northeast of Monticello, contains fun moderate climbing on moderate quality volcanic rock. Most routes are bolted, but some require gear, all have bolted anchors with chains. The area has not seen many ascents, care is required until the flakes stablize.

Great primitive camping about a 2.5 to 3 hour drive from Albuquerque. Although located south of Albuquerque, the campground is at 6900' with temps about those in Albuquerque. Luna Park is situated at the top of a pass and becomes a wind tunnel if a weather front is passing, so avoid it during these times. Optimal season is Mid March-May and September-mid November. 

Original route development is unknown. Several single large bolt anchors likely placed in the 1990s along with stoplight red bolts and chains on B.K.M. Care was taken in current route development to ensure all routes were created with a minimum of fixed protection and well camouflaged to protect scenic qualities of this area.

This area is a fragile desert ecosystem. Please practice leave no trace ethics, and honor the area.  Nearest services are in Truth or Consequnces about 45 minutes away. There is spotty cell phone service from top of cliffs or the high hill west of the campground.

Luna Park is a small three campsite USFS campground.  There is no water.

http://publiclands.org/explore/site.php?id=161

Climbs are located from south to north (right to left). Breaks in text below signify climbs not immediately adjacent to each other.


Full Moon Wall (aka Beyond the Pail)

Eight routes? There are taller climbs on good rock in this location.

Three moderate routes, 5.7 - 5.8 climbing, are on the longer bolted flat face downhill and across the ravine from the outhouse.  Other routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. This location receives early sun and afternoon shade.

The Campsite Area

Todaluna :  5.9, quality 
Lunatique :  5.10+, quality
Wolfman :  5.9 (left) or 5.10-(direct)
 
Project :  anchor present, needs climbing, the neat west facing tower. This is a second tier climb which requires a scramble to the start.

Drill Baby Drill :  5.8

Moonpie :  5.7

Second Tier Climbs: Moonpie provides acess to the next two climbs on the large ledge above.  Another approach is a fourth class scramble on the right. The rock quality on the upper tier degenerates throughout much of Luna Park . New route developers should exercise good judgment. There is another scramble to the cliff top off this ledge left of the routes below.

Mooning the Moonies :  5.10-
Irreverend Moon :  5.11-, quality

The next routes are located on or near a buttress at the north end of the campsite area.

Three Dogs Running: 5.8
BKM :  5.6
Love Lizards :  5.9-
Moonstruck :  5.9, quality


The Northwest Passage

the next routes are on good rock in forest, following a gap in the rock, as you head north along cliff band.

One Small Step :  5.9+
The Right Step :  5.10-, quality
The Right Stuff : 5.9+, quality

Space Chimp :  5.10, quality

these climbs are just around the corner from Space Chimp.

Mooning About :  5.9-
Astrobunnies :  5.6
Suborbital :  5.7

the next routes are around the corner and north of Suborbital

Green Cheese :  5.6
Man in the Moon :  5.8

walk north again to find these climbs.

Not Rocket Science :  5.7
Rocket Science :  5.10-, quality

Getting There

Directions from the north: Take I-25 exit 100 (Red RocK), go south on the west frontage road about five miles to FR #139. Turn right (west) and drive on the dirt road for close to ten miles. Turn right (north) on FR #225 and continue for 5 miles to Luna Park. The dirt roads are better traveled with a high clearence vehicle although a four wheel drive is not required.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Luna Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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The road is still bad coming from Monticello but several high clearance trucks made the trek without too much difficulty. Other vehicles must approach from the north. 1 day ago
We drove up to Luna Park a few weeks ago and the main road coming in from Monticello was fairly torn up in one spot. Has anyone been up to the area in the last 3 weeks? Has the road been fixed? Thanks! Nov 13, 2017
Hi, Contact me if you'd like to climb with a local. Thanks May 23, 2017
Great day climbing in "The Park". Sunny and warm with an unbeatable sunset. Managed 5.9 in poor style to celebrate my bd. Met new climber friends. Nov 10, 2014
Tony Grenko
Las Cruces, NM
Tony Grenko   Las Cruces, NM
I'm really glad Karl and others went on to develop this area. We played with it in the early 80s.

ABOUT VICKS PEAK - Bret Murry and I put up a route on vicks in 1981. It takes the obvious left skyline on the large second buttress from the left in the picture on this post. Climb the large chimney off the ground for 200 feet. Exit chimney on the right to a crack system. Climb up intermittent cracks for 300 or so feet - gradually moving back toward the left. A blocky finish of about 200 feet gets you to the top. 5.7 in the middle area. Crux it the finger crack on pitch 3. We named it "Hippies vs. the Green Berets". Oct 17, 2013
The rap route is in on Redgarden Wall. Go to the route description for X-Man for additional details. May 2, 2012
David MacKenzie
Albuquerque
David MacKenzie   Albuquerque
Burnett, what kind of experience would these volunteers need to have?

(By asking the question, I'm probably showing that I don't have it, myself.) May 1, 2012
There are several moderate trad routes on the low angled face several hundred yards upstream from the campground area, on the same side of the canyon. They start from a grove of small trees.

I am looking for volunteers to help bolt a rap route on Redgarden Wall at the bottom of the hill.

The rap route on Redgarden Wall was installed by Karl and crew, thank you. It's pretty much in the center and the chains can be found by following either of two slots that meet in a 90. Be sure to move right on the first rap. The ledge is under an alcove and may require you to swing over to clip in. Rather exciting, dangling at the end of your rope.

Around the corner to the right of X-Man is a project and then an obvious 75 foot layback flake. Chutes and Ladders follows the flake 5.7 to a cave with a belay in the back. Three cracks exit the cave, an overhanging fist crack is to the right. The other two go at about 5.7.

To the left of X-Man, down the hill, there is a small block leaning against the face. Recon climbs the block by any means and then the crack to a bulge. Pass it on the right in a flaring crack and continue on easy ground. The last 50 feet is runout at 5.2. Second Pitch begins in the grove of trees and follows the diehedral to the top.

Projects abound on Redgarden Wall. Mar 20, 2012
The climbing history at Luna Park undoubtedly began with the Apache's barefoot first ascents. Luna Park was a hunting camp, game was driven up the canyon. Arrowheads have been found near the bathroom. Known first ascents (the trad routes) began in 1975 with the brothers Mike and Tony Grenko. Bill King Sr. established the first topo of The Park and I helped fill in the blank areas in the mid 90's. The 1/2 inch bolts were installed by Bill and were part of a system he used to toprope many of todays bolted faces. Bolting sport routes at "The Park" wasn't considered important to the few locals, new route developement shifted to Redgarden Wall at the bottom of the canyon. There are a lot of new routes remaining to be put in on Redgarden Wall, up to 170', both sport and mixed. It is primarily good rock with incredible potential and no new routes have appeared on the crag in the last 10 years. Jan 14, 2012
I believe it's National Forest. Dec 17, 2011
David MacKenzie
Albuquerque
David MacKenzie   Albuquerque
my interest hath been piqued. Is this BLM land? Dec 17, 2011
I have to say that Luna Park is really a diverse climbing location. The Luna Park area has been expertly developed with a multitude of great routes and a drive up access. The surrounding area has tons of crags, many climbed by my partner, that you can hike to and get in some great trad ascents. Also, there are tons of bouldering possibility's. Really a great location. Best of all.. the sun shines on the Luna Park climbs all day during the winter.. t-shirt time when pumping! And anchors just about any place you would think of setting a top rope. Still some great trad left right at Luna too. Try out the area, I think you'll like it. I probably will regret these comments when I have to wait in line to hit a route though..





Dec 14, 2011
I made it in a 2WD passenger car last weekend without any issues. Its an old car with maybe a little more clearance than average, but not much. Take it slow and careful and the average sedan/mini-van should be fine. I did puncture a tire on the way in though, so check your spare before heading out... Apr 1, 2011
So, what type of high clearance are we talking here? Mini-van will work...right? Mar 30, 2011
Was wondering when this would get posted. I have been frequenting this area for the past 4 years (not for sport climbing). Good job on the development. Have to admit I will be sad to see more traffic in this area. Truly a beautiful area. Feb 14, 2011
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Nice job developing this area. Many thanks to Karl, Mark Thomas, and all those who took the time and effort to put up something new.

W Feb 11, 2011

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