Luna Park Rock Climbing
|GPS:||33.496, -107.415 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Karl R. Kiser on Feb 10, 2011 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
The purpose of this Order is to protect the public due to road reconstruction where no detour can be safely made to avoid and traverse around the road construction zone. Concrete is being placed to alleviate erosive conditions within the closure area. This requires time for the concrete to harden before reopening the road to vehicle travel.
The Restricted Area is within Township 9S., Range 6W., Sections 36 specifically mile marker 22.6 to 22.9 of NFSR 225. A map identifying the Restricted Area is attached and made part of this Order as Exhibit A.
As of October 6th, the reconstruction to Service Road 225 on mile 9.9 to 10.1 has been completed under the Temporary Area Closure Order (03-0698). This section of 225 is now open to vehicle travel.
Any violation of this prohibition is punishable as a Class B misdemeanor by a fine of not more than $5,000 for individuals and $10,000 for organizations, or by imprisonment for not more than six (6) months, or both (see 16 U.S.C. § 551, 18 U.S.C. § 3571(b)(6), 18 U.S.C. § 3581 (b)(7)).
For more information about this closure, please contact: Magdalena Ranger District at #575-854-2281
Great primitive camping about a 2.5 to 3 hour drive from Albuquerque. Although located south of Albuquerque, the campground is at 6900' with temps about those in Albuquerque. Luna Park is situated at the top of a pass and becomes a wind tunnel if a weather front is passing, so avoid it during these times. Optimal season is Mid March-May and September-mid November.
Original route development is unknown. Several single large bolt anchors likely placed in the 1990s along with stoplight red bolts and chains on B.K.M. Care was taken in current route development to ensure all routes were created with a minimum of fixed protection and well camouflaged to protect scenic qualities of this area. Modern development commenced in the fall of 2008.
This area is a fragile desert ecosystem. Please practice leave no trace ethics, and honor the area. Nearest services are in Truth or Consequnces about 45 minutes away. There is spotty cell phone service from top of cliffs or the high hill west of the campground.
Luna Park is a small three campsite USFS campground. There is no water.
Climbs are located from south to north (right to left). Breaks in text below signify climbs not immediately adjacent to each other.
Full Moon Wall (aka Beyond the Pail)
Eight routes? There are taller climbs on good rock in this location.
Three moderate routes, 5.7 - 5.8 climbing, are on the longer bolted flat face downhill and across the ravine from the outhouse. Other routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. This location receives early sun and afternoon shade.
The Campsite Area
Todaluna : 5.9, quality
Lunatique : 5.10+, quality
Wolfman : 5.9 (left) or 5.10-(direct)
Project : anchor present, needs climbing, the neat west facing tower. This is a second tier climb which requires a scramble to the start.
Drill Baby Drill : 5.8
Moonpie : 5.7
Second Tier Climbs: Moonpie provides acess to the next two climbs on the large ledge above. Another approach is a fourth class scramble on the right. The rock quality on the upper tier degenerates throughout much of Luna Park . New route developers should exercise good judgment. There is another scramble to the cliff top off this ledge left of the routes below.
Mooning the Moonies : 5.10-
Irreverend Moon : 5.11-, quality
The next routes are located on or near a buttress at the north end of the campsite area.
Three Dogs Running: 5.8
BKM : 5.6
Love Lizards : 5.9-
Moonstruck : 5.9, quality
The Northwest Passage
the next routes are on good rock in forest, following a gap in the rock, as you head north along cliff band.
One Small Step : 5.9+
The Right Step : 5.10-, quality
The Right Stuff : 5.9+, quality
Space Chimp : 5.10, quality
these climbs are just around the corner from Space Chimp.
Mooning About : 5.9-
Astrobunnies : 5.6
Suborbital : 5.7
the next routes are around the corner and north of Suborbital
Green Cheese : 5.6
Man in the Moon : 5.8
walk north again to find these climbs.
Not Rocket Science : 5.7
Rocket Science : 5.10-, quality
If you're traveling from the south: Take I-25 exit 92 (Mitchell Point), go north on the west frontage road about 4.3 miles to FR #139. Turn left (west) and continue on as directions above.
Classic Climbing Routes at Luna Park
Days w Precip