Elevation: 6,825 ft
GPS: 33.496, -107.415 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 68,929 total · 487/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Feb 10, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: July 25, 2021 - Temporary Area Closure Order issued for Forest Service Road 225 Details

Description

Luna Park, located eight miles northeast of Monticello, contains fun moderate climbing on moderate quality volcanic rock. Most routes are bolted, but some require gear, all have bolted anchors with chains. The area has not seen many ascents, care is required until the flakes stablize.

Great primitive camping about a 2.5 to 3 hour drive from Albuquerque. Although located south of Albuquerque, the campground is at 6900' with temps about those in Albuquerque. Luna Park is situated at the top of a pass and becomes a wind tunnel if a weather front is passing, so avoid it during these times. Optimal season is Mid March-May and September-mid November. 

Original route development is unknown. Several single large bolt anchors likely placed in the 1990s along with stoplight red bolts and chains on B.K.M. Care was taken in current route development to ensure all routes were created with a minimum of fixed protection and well camouflaged to protect scenic qualities of this area. Modern development commenced in the fall of 2008.

This area is a fragile desert ecosystem. Please practice leave no trace ethics, and honor the area.  Nearest services are in Truth or Consequnces about 45 minutes away. There is spotty cell phone service from top of cliffs or the high hill west of the campground.

Luna Park is a small three campsite USFS campground.  There is no water.

publiclands.org/explore/sit…

Climbs are located from south to north (right to left). Breaks in text below signify climbs not immediately adjacent to each other.

Full Moon Wall (aka Beyond the Pail)

Eight routes? There are taller climbs on good rock in this location.

Three moderate routes, 5.7 - 5.8 climbing, are on the longer bolted flat face downhill and across the ravine from the outhouse.  Other routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. This location receives early sun and afternoon shade.

The Campsite Area

Todaluna :  5.9, quality 
Lunatique :  5.10+, quality
Wolfman :  5.9 (left) or 5.10-(direct)
 
Project :  anchor present, needs climbing, the neat west facing tower. This is a second tier climb which requires a scramble to the start.

Drill Baby Drill :  5.8

Moonpie :  5.7

Second Tier Climbs: Moonpie provides acess to the next two climbs on the large ledge above.  Another approach is a fourth class scramble on the right. The rock quality on the upper tier degenerates throughout much of Luna Park . New route developers should exercise good judgment. There is another scramble to the cliff top off this ledge left of the routes below.

Mooning the Moonies :  5.10-
Irreverend Moon :  5.11-, quality

The next routes are located on or near a buttress at the north end of the campsite area.

Three Dogs Running: 5.8
BKM :  5.6
Love Lizards :  5.9-
Moonstruck :  5.9, quality

The Northwest Passage

the next routes are on good rock in forest, following a gap in the rock, as you head north along cliff band.

One Small Step :  5.9+
The Right Step :  5.10-, quality
The Right Stuff : 5.9+, quality

Space Chimp :  5.10, quality

these climbs are just around the corner from Space Chimp.

Mooning About :  5.9-
Astrobunnies :  5.6
Suborbital :  5.7

the next routes are around the corner and north of Suborbital

Green Cheese :  5.6
Man in the Moon :  5.8

walk north again to find these climbs.

Not Rocket Science :  5.7
Rocket Science :  5.10-, quality

Getting There

DIRECTIONS FROM THE NORTH
Take I-25 exit 100 (Red RocK), go south on the west frontage road about five miles to FR #139. Turn right (west) and drive on the dirt road for close to ten miles. Turn right (north) on FR #225 and continue for 5 miles to Luna Park. The dirt roads are better traveled with a high clearence vehicle although a four wheel drive is not required. Google Map driving directions from ABQ: goo.gl/maps/yetCtcU6Df71YFgM7

DIRECTIONS FROM THE SOUTH:
Take I-25 exit 92 (Mitchell Point), go north on the west frontage road about 4.3 miles to FR #139. Turn left (west) and continue on as directions above.

Anchors

Community carabiners to facilitate lowering have been added to lots of the routes (Sept 2021). Please don't take these carabiners and don't top rope on them. Set up your own anchor while climbing and the last person lowers off the community carabiners.

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Luna Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 24
BKM
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
Face 2
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Zero Gravity
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Rattle Face
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Wands At The Ready
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Three Dogs Running
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Moonstruck
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
Slot 1
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Cactus Butt
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Right
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Space Chimp
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
Rocket Science
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Bring Out Your Dead
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Set Phasers To Stun
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 14
Left
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
BKM E Side > Campground
 24
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Face 2 E Side > Full Moon Wall
 22
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Zero Gravity E Side > Northwest Passage
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rattle Face Upper Park
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wands At The Ready Upper Park
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Three Dogs Running E Side > Campground
 22
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Moonstruck E Side > Campground
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Slot 1 E Side > Full Moon Wall
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Cactus Butt Upper Park
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Right E Side > Full Moon Wall
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Space Chimp E Side > Northwest Passage
 19
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rocket Science E Side > Northwest Passage
 33
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bring Out Your Dead Upper Park
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Set Phasers To Stun E Side > Campground
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Left E Side > Full Moon Wall
 14
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Luna Park »

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