Luna Park Rock Climbing
|GPS:||33.496, -107.415 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Karl Kiser on Feb 10, 2011|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
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DescriptionLuna Park, located eight miles northeast of Monticello, contains fun moderate climbing on moderate quality volcanic rock. Most routes are bolted, but some require gear, all have bolted anchors with chains. The area has not seen many ascents, care is required until the flakes stablize.
Great primitive camping about a 2.5 to 3 hour drive from Albuquerque. Although located south of Albuquerque, the campground is at 6900' with temps about those in Albuquerque. Luna Park is situated at the top of a pass and becomes a wind tunnel if a weather front is passing, so avoid it during these times. Optimal season is Mid March-May and September-mid November.
Original route development is unknown. Several single large bolt anchors likely placed in the 1990s along with stoplight red bolts and chains on B.K.M. Care was taken in current route development to ensure all routes were created with a minimum of fixed protection and well camouflaged to protect scenic qualities of this area.
This area is a fragile desert ecosystem. Please practice leave no trace ethics, and honor the area. Nearest services are in Truth or Consequnces about 45 minutes away. There is spotty cell phone service from top of cliffs or the high hill west of the campground.
Luna Park is a small three campsite USFS campground. There is no water.
Climbs are located from south to north (right to left). Breaks in text below signify climbs not immediately adjacent to each other.
Full Moon Wall (aka Beyond the Pail)
Eight routes? There are taller climbs on good rock in this location.
Three moderate routes, 5.7 - 5.8 climbing, are on the longer bolted flat face downhill and across the ravine from the outhouse. Other routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. This location receives early sun and afternoon shade.
The Campsite Area
Todaluna : 5.9, quality
Lunatique : 5.10+, quality
Wolfman : 5.9 (left) or 5.10-(direct)
Project : anchor present, needs climbing, the neat west facing tower. This is a second tier climb which requires a scramble to the start.
Drill Baby Drill : 5.8
Moonpie : 5.7
Second Tier Climbs: Moonpie provides acess to the next two climbs on the large ledge above. Another approach is a fourth class scramble on the right. The rock quality on the upper tier degenerates throughout much of Luna Park . New route developers should exercise good judgment. There is another scramble to the cliff top off this ledge left of the routes below.
Mooning the Moonies : 5.10-
Irreverend Moon : 5.11-, quality
The next routes are located on or near a buttress at the north end of the campsite area.
Three Dogs Running: 5.8
BKM : 5.6
Love Lizards : 5.9-
Moonstruck : 5.9, quality
The Northwest Passage
the next routes are on good rock in forest, following a gap in the rock, as you head north along cliff band.
One Small Step : 5.9+
The Right Step : 5.10-, quality
The Right Stuff : 5.9+, quality
Space Chimp : 5.10, quality
these climbs are just around the corner from Space Chimp.
Mooning About : 5.9-
Astrobunnies : 5.6
Suborbital : 5.7
the next routes are around the corner and north of Suborbital
Green Cheese : 5.6
Man in the Moon : 5.8
walk north again to find these climbs.
Not Rocket Science : 5.7
Rocket Science : 5.10-, quality
Getting ThereDirections from the north: Take I-25 exit 100 (Red RocK), go south on the west frontage road about five miles to FR #139. Turn right (west) and drive on the dirt road for close to ten miles. Turn right (north) on FR #225 and continue for 5 miles to Luna Park. The dirt roads are better traveled with a high clearence vehicle although a four wheel drive is not required.
Classic Climbing Routes at Luna Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season