Elevation: 6,825 ft
GPS: 33.496, -107.415 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 47,847 total · 391/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Feb 10, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details
Access Issue: Oct. 12, 2020 - Temporary Area Closure Order issued for Forest Service Road 225 (mile 22.6 to 22.9) Details

Description

Luna Park, located eight miles northeast of Monticello, contains fun moderate climbing on moderate quality volcanic rock. Most routes are bolted, but some require gear, all have bolted anchors with chains. The area has not seen many ascents, care is required until the flakes stablize.

Great primitive camping about a 2.5 to 3 hour drive from Albuquerque. Although located south of Albuquerque, the campground is at 6900' with temps about those in Albuquerque. Luna Park is situated at the top of a pass and becomes a wind tunnel if a weather front is passing, so avoid it during these times. Optimal season is Mid March-May and September-mid November. 

Original route development is unknown. Several single large bolt anchors likely placed in the 1990s along with stoplight red bolts and chains on B.K.M. Care was taken in current route development to ensure all routes were created with a minimum of fixed protection and well camouflaged to protect scenic qualities of this area. Modern development commenced in the fall of 2008.

This area is a fragile desert ecosystem. Please practice leave no trace ethics, and honor the area.  Nearest services are in Truth or Consequnces about 45 minutes away. There is spotty cell phone service from top of cliffs or the high hill west of the campground.

Luna Park is a small three campsite USFS campground.  There is no water.

publiclands.org/explore/sit…

Climbs are located from south to north (right to left). Breaks in text below signify climbs not immediately adjacent to each other.

Full Moon Wall (aka Beyond the Pail)

Eight routes? There are taller climbs on good rock in this location.

Three moderate routes, 5.7 - 5.8 climbing, are on the longer bolted flat face downhill and across the ravine from the outhouse.  Other routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. This location receives early sun and afternoon shade.

The Campsite Area

Todaluna :  5.9, quality 
Lunatique :  5.10+, quality
Wolfman :  5.9 (left) or 5.10-(direct)
 
Project :  anchor present, needs climbing, the neat west facing tower. This is a second tier climb which requires a scramble to the start.

Drill Baby Drill :  5.8

Moonpie :  5.7

Second Tier Climbs: Moonpie provides acess to the next two climbs on the large ledge above.  Another approach is a fourth class scramble on the right. The rock quality on the upper tier degenerates throughout much of Luna Park . New route developers should exercise good judgment. There is another scramble to the cliff top off this ledge left of the routes below.

Mooning the Moonies :  5.10-
Irreverend Moon :  5.11-, quality

The next routes are located on or near a buttress at the north end of the campsite area.

Three Dogs Running: 5.8
BKM :  5.6
Love Lizards :  5.9-
Moonstruck :  5.9, quality

The Northwest Passage

the next routes are on good rock in forest, following a gap in the rock, as you head north along cliff band.

One Small Step :  5.9+
The Right Step :  5.10-, quality
The Right Stuff : 5.9+, quality

Space Chimp :  5.10, quality

these climbs are just around the corner from Space Chimp.

Mooning About :  5.9-
Astrobunnies :  5.6
Suborbital :  5.7

the next routes are around the corner and north of Suborbital

Green Cheese :  5.6
Man in the Moon :  5.8

walk north again to find these climbs.

Not Rocket Science :  5.7
Rocket Science :  5.10-, quality

Getting There

Directions from the north: Take I-25 exit 100 (Red RocK), go south on the west frontage road about five miles to FR #139. Turn right (west) and drive on the dirt road for close to ten miles. Turn right (north) on FR #225 and continue for 5 miles to Luna Park. The dirt roads are better traveled with a high clearence vehicle although a four wheel drive is not required.

If you're traveling from the south: Take I-25 exit 92 (Mitchell Point), go north on the west frontage road about 4.3 miles to FR #139. Turn left (west) and continue on as directions above.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Luna Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 18
BKM
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
Face 2
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Three Dogs Running
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Zero Gravity
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Moonstruck
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Houston, We Have a Problem
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
The Right Stuff
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
A Space Oddity
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Wax and Wane
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Right
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Space Chimp
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Rocket Science
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Set Phasers To Stun
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 10
Clever Lunar-Themed Route Name
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
Left
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
BKM E Side > Campground
 18
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Face 2 E Side > Full Moon Wall
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Three Dogs Running E Side > Campground
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Zero Gravity E Side > Northwest Passage
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Moonstruck E Side > Campground
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Houston, We Have a Problem E Side > Full Moon Wall
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Right Stuff E Side > Northwest Passage
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
A Space Oddity E Side > Northwest Passage
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Wax and Wane E Side > Northwest Passage
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Right E Side > Full Moon Wall
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Space Chimp E Side > Northwest Passage
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rocket Science E Side > Northwest Passage
 25
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Set Phasers To Stun E Side > Campground
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Clever Lunar-Themed Route Name E Side > Northwest Passage
 10
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Left E Side > Full Moon Wall
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Luna Park »

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