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Routes in Indian Rock

"Not So Direct" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Elevation: 7,181 ft
GPS: 38.87, -120.078 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,316 total, 38/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...


Indian Rock is the largest rock in the Tahoe Basin. This 1,000 foot face, actually the northwest face of Angora Peak, rises above Lily Lake. Three terraces divide the face. The Tahoe Wall, above the right side of the second terrace, is 400 feet high. The Treasure Chest is a square wall, 300 feet high, in the center of the face.

I'm sure many new routes have been done since I was last there.

Routes, left to right:

  • Indirect Route, 1,000', Rick Sumner and friends

Routes, unsorted:

  • "White Lightning" 5.9
  • "Doolagooga Dihedral" 5.7
  • "Orange Marmalade" 5.10b
  • "Rare Gem" 5.10b, Rick Sumner and friends
  • "Indian Head" 5.9
  • "Oid's Overhang" 5.9
  • "Andy's Corner" 5.8

("AlDude" and John Nye put up a new route near the Indian Head in the 1980s, maybe this is Indian Head 5.9?).

Getting There

Take the Fallen Leaf Lake Road from Highway 89 approximately three miles north of the "Y" in South Lake Tahoe. Take the left fork of the road before crossing the bridge, to Lily Lake.

Follow the Triangle/Tamarack Lakes Trail on foot for one mile. Then do a talus death march up to the cliff. Allow at least an hour.

Descend north to where one can go left down 3rd class at the edge of the rock.

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Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Its mentioned in the Carville Guide May 28, 2017
I've been heading up there for a couple seasons. Im wondering if there is a desire to keep this cliff obscure? thus the lack of info? I know there are already some bolts out there and some limited beta available, but I wanted to see if there are any feelings one way or the other about further development and beta sharing. Would anyone have objections to installing bolted anchors and/or an occasional lead bolt up there? And what's the feeling on publishing topos?

I know the cliff is inside the Desolation Wilderness so I believe hand drilling is obligatory for any bolting, but is there a desire around town to keep this cliff off the books? Or would some development, fixed anchors, and topos be welcome? Any input would be appreciated! Thanks!

Ive seen it in the old Carville guide, I'm just wondering if people have feelings about new routes/bolts. May 26, 2017
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Bobby, we are seeking (or at least were at one point) info on the same place. Let's climb. Nov 25, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Hey Bobby, this is what I've seen on the Supertopo forums.…… Feb 4, 2015
Larkspur CA
BobbyReno   Larkspur CA
Looking for Beta on Indian Rock also or where to find information also.

Anything will help. Jan 30, 2015
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Anyone know anything about Rare Gem? Or at least where I can find info? Jan 21, 2015

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