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Routes in Livezey Rock

Directissima TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eight, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Society TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lambie Pie (aka the Ten) TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Nine, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PA Turnpike TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regular TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Seven, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stevens TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnnamed TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V1 traverse V1 5
Zig Zag TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 150 ft
GPS: 40.048, -75.211 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,784 total · 182/month
Shared By: Dave Rosso on Oct 13, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC
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Description

Livezey Rock has been regularly used for toproping and bouldering since at the least the 1950's, when the Philadelphia Grotto of the National Speleological Society organized regular climbs there. The Mountaineering Section of the Philadelphia Grotto drilled at least some of the bolts still in use today during the late 1960's. One of the most active climbers from this period, Lou Lutz, is commemorated by a plaque here. Livezey today has several pairs of eyebolts, with a handful of short established routes can be climbed on toprope from each.

Livezey Rock is a large chunk of Wissahickon Schist, blown open around the 1930's by the Civilian Conservation Corps crew building the sewer pipe running past it. The climbing walls face generally south. The area is shaded by the surrounding forest in the morning, but gets direct sunlight for much of the day. There are almost always anchors available for use, even on the rare occasion that the crag gets crowded. The locals are usually friendly, and the long-time climbers will give you beta or names of the established routes here.

There are actually three rocks that are climbed here. The upper, or main rock is bouldered and toproped. The middle and lower rocks are only bouldered.

This description is based partly on notes on the history of climbing in Philadelphia that used to be on the Philadelphia Grotto's Mountaineering Section page.

Getting There

Livezey Lane is closed to public traffic and parking. Instead, many climbers choose to park near the top of Livezey Lane on Wayne Avenue, between Allens Lane and Mount Airy Avenue.

From this parking area, walk downhill on Livezey Lane to where it turns northwest. Pass a unique white angular house on your right (it looks like it could be an art museum). Pass this house and its entire property, and then watch for a small dirt pullout on your left as you continue downhill (if you reach the river, you've gone too far). The back of the pullout is the start of a level, well-used dirt trail.

Follow the trail into the woods, past a concrete manhole cover on the left (sometimes this is overgrown and not easily seen). The trail becomes a large-diameter pipe with plenty of room to walk securely on top. You will pass a bulletin board on the left, then walk directly under the overhanging main face of Livezey Rock.

The whole approach is around a quarter of a mile from street parking, with about 150 feet of elevation loss that you'll notice more on the return trip.

Those familiar with Wissahickon Valley Park will find many options for parking, walking, hiking, or biking in, by way of many connecting trails.

Routes

Livezey Rock's routes are mostly eliminates and variations of a few main lines.

On the main rock, the anchors in these descriptions are numbered 1 to 5 from the climber's left to right. Anchors 1 and 2 are over steep rock; 3, 4 and 5 are mostly vertical. Anchor 5 is over the shortest climbs.

I'll try to collect and preserve some long-established routes and names here. These are beta-specific routes. Your feedback on these is appreciated, I'll make updates based on your comments and messages.

From "UKC Logbook"
There are two lower boulders with more boulder problems including Rich's Cave Problem (Middle boulder, V5), Jamy's Problem (V6), Not a Ten (V8), The Traverse (V4). The lower boulder is short and very steep.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Livezey Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Zig Zag
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
The Seven
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Unnnamed
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
The Eight
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Directissima
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
The Nine
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Great Society
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zig Zag
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
The Seven
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Unnnamed
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
The Eight
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Directissima
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
The Nine
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Great Society
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
More Classic Climbs in Livezey Rock »

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Justin Compton
Lafayette, CO
Justin Compton   Lafayette, CO
+1 on not taking valuables there. I had my car broken into and a backpack and laptop in a case stolen out of it several years ago. Lucky for me the low-life thugs didn't realize my full trad rack in the back was worth more than everything else they stole! Feb 9, 2012
AussieRcK
King of Prussia, PA
AussieRcK   King of Prussia, PA
Do NOT park down on Livezey Road. Cops and PArk Rangers will ticket you. Park at the top of the road. Aug 4, 2013
I really enjoy Livezey for a quick morning or afternoon of climbing. There are solid eye bolts at the top of the wall. You will need cord or webbing for anchors. The anchors on the far left (while looking at the wall from below) can be a little sketch to set up and you will have to use the tree for #1.

I tend to park not on Livezey Lane, since you can get ticketed and it can be sketchy. I will park off of Ridge or Henry at one of the other park entrances and hike in.

I have never really be able to figure out which route is what. I just set the anchors up and know which rope is generally harder or easier than the other. You can do so many variations on each anchor and make it harder or easier on yourself. If anyone has a great knowledge of the routes and their deviations I think you could easily write up the routes based on the anchors. Sep 28, 2017
Josh Rappoport
Chicago, IL
Josh Rappoport   Chicago, IL
Anybody planning on climbing at Livezey Rock next Saturday (12/2/17)? Nov 26, 2017

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