Elevation: 169 ft
GPS: 40.049, -75.212 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,322 total · 284/month
Shared By: Dave Rosso on Oct 13, 2010 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Justin Johnsen, William Sonoma, SCPC

Description

Livezey Rock has been regularly used for toproping and bouldering since at the least the 1950's, when the Philadelphia Grotto of the National Speleological Society organized regular climbs there. The Mountaineering Section of the Philadelphia Grotto drilled at least some of the bolts still in use today during the late 1960's. One of the most active climbers from this period, Lou Lutz, is commemorated by a plaque here. Livezey today has several pairs of eyebolts, with a handful of short established routes can be climbed on toprope from each.

Livezey Rock is a large chunk of Wissahickon Schist, blown open around the 1930's by the Civilian Conservation Corps crew building the sewer pipe running past it. The climbing walls face generally south. The area is shaded by the surrounding forest in the morning, but gets direct sunlight for much of the day. There are almost always anchors available for use, even on the rare occasion that the crag gets crowded. The locals are usually friendly, and the long-time climbers will give you beta or names of the established routes here.

There are actually three rocks that are climbed here. The upper, or main rock is bouldered and toproped. The middle and lower rocks are only bouldered.

This description is based partly on notes on the history of climbing in Philadelphia that used to be on the Philadelphia Grotto's Mountaineering Section page.

Getting There

Livezey Lane is closed to public traffic and parking. Instead, many climbers choose to park near the top of Livezey Lane on Wayne Avenue, between Allens Lane and Mount Airy Avenue.

From this parking area, walk downhill on Livezey Lane to where it turns northwest. Pass a unique white angular house on your right (it looks like it could be an art museum). Pass this house and its entire property (do *not* take the trail opposite the house), and then watch for a small dirt pullout on your left as you continue downhill (if you reach the river, you've gone too far.  It’s the one with the porta-pottys). The back of the pullout is the start of a level, well-used dirt trail.

Follow the trail into the woods, past a concrete manhole cover on the left (sometimes this is overgrown and not easily seen.  It stands 3’ high.  If you’re at a ground-level manhole cover next to a fire hydrant, you’re one trail too far downhill). The trail becomes a large-diameter pipe with plenty of room to walk securely on top. You'll pass a bulletin board on the left, then walk directly under the overhanging main face of Livezey Rock.

The whole approach is around a quarter of a mile from street parking, with about 150 feet of elevation loss that you'll notice more on the return trip.

Those familiar with Wissahickon Valley Park will find many options for parking, walking, hiking, or biking in, by way of many connecting trails.

Routes

Livezey Rock's routes are mostly eliminates and variations of a few main lines.

On the main rock, the anchors in these descriptions are numbered 1 to 5 from the climber's left to right. Anchors 1 and 2 are over steep rock; 3, 4 and 5 are mostly vertical. Anchor 5 is over the shortest climbs.

I'll try to collect and preserve some long-established routes and names here. These are beta-specific routes. Your feedback on these is appreciated, I'll make updates based on your comments and messages.

From "UKC Logbook"
There are two lower boulders with more boulder problems including Rich's Cave Problem (Middle boulder, V5), Jamy's Problem (V6), Not a Ten (V8), The Traverse (V4). The lower boulder is short and very steep.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Livezey Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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