GPS: 38.568, -122.441 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Closed, on private property. Details


Band of cliffs up to 45 feet high located on property owned by St. Helena Hospital, now CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC. West facing, thus shady in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. Because of the difficult approach (steep, loose and bushy in places, with copious blackberry and poison oak) and mediocre climbing, this crag isn't worth visiting unless you happen to live nearby or are eager to tick off new climbs in the area. A two-bolt anchor is present above the climbs on the left end of the formation. Climbs at the right end of the formation are best anchored from small trees at the top, with several unappealing options. Because the top of the cliff is more difficult to scramble to than the base, the climbs are usually led and then rappelled. Names of climbs are given as a convenience for the climbing community, but if anybody knows of earlier names (or objects to new names coined for old problems), I would happily rename (or delete) them.

Getting There

CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC. From the junction of Silverado Trail and Deer Park Road in St. Helena, drive 4.1 miles north on Deer Park Road, which eventually becomes Howell Mountain Road, to White Cottage Road. Turn left on White Cottage Road and continue 1.6 miles to the junction of Liparita Avenue on the left and Brookside Avenue on the right. Turn left on Liparita Avenue and drive 0.3 mile until you see some parking spaces on the left just in front of a gate and beside a pump house. Walk back toward White Cottage Road for about 20 feet to the end of the fence on the right side of the road and pick up the trail behind the fence. Follow the trail through some manzanita past a pump house, then downhill on a wide, zig-zagging trail about 0.3 mile. Shortly after crossing a stream, look for a pipe that exits a steep bank on the right side of the trail. Exit the trail at this point, boulder-hop across the stream through blackberry vines, and follow a climber's trail 0.1 mile across chaparral and down a couple of steep boulders to the base of a cliff. Scramble 0.1 mile down, then up along the base of the cliff, cross a steep sandy slope (potentially unstable and dangerous after a heavy rain), and continue along the base of the cliff to the main face.

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Jason Stewart
Santa Rosa, California
Jason Stewart   Santa Rosa, California
Was there this weekend. The property has been sealed up and they put up about 40 no trespassing signs. We were bad stewards and we trespassed. When we came back up, the cops were there with a guy from St Helena Hospital, who owns it now. They're VERY serious about the No Trespassing. I guess there is a well here now that supplies all the water for the hospital. May 26, 2015
Oh sheesh, I'm very sorry to hear that happened to you. I'm pretty sure the property has been owned by St. Helena Hospital for decades and water had been taken from the stream for decades, too, but the trails have always been popular for hiking and biking, and open to the public. The last few years the hospital invested a lot of money into upgrading the water pumps and pipes. I knew barriers had been set up but I thought they were temporary while construction was going on during weekdays. People were just going around the barriers, especially during weekends. I haven't been there in 6 months, but somebody mentioned to me the other day that the trail was now closed to the public, and now you have confirmed it. Too bad, because there is a great network of trails plus a beautiful waterfall and swimming hole (Devil's Punchbowl) a short distance downhill from the climbing site. Hopefully some day it will open up again to the public. Jun 1, 2015
Thue Madsen
San Francisco, CA
Thue Madsen   San Francisco, CA
Does anyone know if this is still closed to the public? Jan 12, 2018
I haven't driven by the trailhead recently but I'm pretty sure it is still closed. However, I will check it out. If it is now open I will post a message here. Jan 12, 2018
Thue Madsen
San Francisco, CA
Thue Madsen   San Francisco, CA
Thanks, Floyd! Looks like a cool little crag. Apr 9, 2018