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GPS: 41.80872, -111.62945
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Jul 22, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Stemmler, Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
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Description Suggest change

Another quality Logan Canyon crag with some gems and other decent climbs worthy of mentioning. North side of the road just past Rodent Ranch. Sunny in morning, shady in evening. Not often visited.

Getting There Suggest change

Park 10.9 miles up Logan Canyon,.5 miles past mile marker 472, in one of the two dirt pullouts in that area. GPS coordinates for the large pullout are 41.80745334824434, -111.62856091042063. Find the faint trail that heads up the steep embankment to the crag. See the picture for the start of the trail, it is behind a post 100-200 feet south of the large pullout. Do not go up to the left of the rocks across the pullout. 

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Utopia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
● Sunhat Memo
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
● Good Medicine
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
● Swedish Finger Yams
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
● Harpua
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
● Patern of Fate
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
● Doctor Feel Good
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
● Wimbledon Sisters
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Sunhat Memo
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Good Medicine
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Swedish Finger Yams
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Harpua
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Patern of Fate
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Doctor Feel Good
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Wimbledon Sisters
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Utopia »

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Utopia Crag
Utopia Crag
 1
Larger parking area, start of trail is 100-200 feet south on the other side of the road, see other picture. GPS coords for parking are 41.80745334824434, -111.62856091042063
Larger parking area, start of trail is 100-200…
 0
Start of the trail is behind the post, about 100-200 feet south of the parking area.
Start of the trail is behind the post, about 10…
 0
Do not use this to go up. The start of the trail is like 100 ft south, see other picture.
Do not use this to go up. The start of the trai…
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