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Swedish Finger Yams [Suggest Change]
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 14
votes
Routes in Utopia
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Doctor Feel Good S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Good Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Harpua S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Patern of Fate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sunhat Memo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swedish Finger Yams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 133 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | Spencer Weiler on Jul 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Description [Suggest Change]
The best route at the crag for most climbers due to its length, rock quality, position, and easy grade. Follow the bolts up the increasingly steep face, enjoying the endurance as there really aren't any bomber rests for the 5.10 climber. Most cut right at the last bolt to get to the chains as it is just so appealing to climb the jugs rather than the slippery lieback flake.
Location [Suggest Change]
This is the first route you come to when you hit the crag from the trail. Great flat belay spot.
Logan
After stemming across a small gap you'll reach the prominent ledge, where it's possible to connect with other routes, or walk off to the left. Jun 8, 2012
Salt Lake City, Ut
Only negative about the climb IMO was the sharper than usual (for Logan Canyon) holds. I seem to remember the tips of my fingers feeling like they'd been on pet piranha across the canyon.. Jun 1, 2013
I put a new one up just to the left of this. New route is "Sunhat Memo" 10a. (FA S.Thalacker & D.Cupal)
Not listed are other 12's to the right of Swedish Finger Yams.
12a/b: Wimbledon Sisters (FA) D.Cupal
12c/d: Schmoop (FA) D.Cupal & M.Solinko
12b: Project
Waiting until it turns colder to finish project--mega rattlesnakes Aug 2, 2014
Boulder