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Routes in Utopia

Doctor Feel Good S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harpua S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Patern of Fate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunhat Memo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swedish Finger Yams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 147 total · 1/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Jul 22, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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The best route at the crag for most climbers due to its length, rock quality, position, and easy grade. Follow the bolts up the increasingly steep face, enjoying the endurance as there really aren't any bomber rests for the 5.10 climber. Most cut right at the last bolt to get to the chains as it is just so appealing to climb the jugs rather than the slippery lieback flake.


This is the first route you come to when you hit the crag from the trail. Great flat belay spot.


10 bolts, chains


Mile9 Earl
Mile9 Earl   Logan
There are no bolts past the chains, but you can place a couple pieces of protection for a short and easy (5.5) second pitch--stay right. This also assumes you have someone to clean behind you.
After stemming across a small gap you'll reach the prominent ledge, where it's possible to connect with other routes, or walk off to the left. Jun 8, 2012
Ryan s Nelson
Salt Lake City, Ut
Ryan s Nelson   Salt Lake City, Ut
Very fun route with lots of good moves. The original name of this climb apparently was "Swedish Finger Yams" as a friend of the FA party was visiting from Sweden and was hoping for some jams (or "yams" as a swede apparently pronounced with their accent)on the climb. Much to their disappointment there aren't many to be had here...

Only negative about the climb IMO was the sharper than usual (for Logan Canyon) holds. I seem to remember the tips of my fingers feeling like they'd been on pet piranha across the canyon.. Jun 1, 2013
DCupal (FA) It's correct name is Swedish Finger Yams--incorrectly named in C. Hyer's Logan Canyon book--and rated at 10c (going straight up to chains at last bolt).
I put a new one up just to the left of this. New route is "Sunhat Memo" 10a. (FA S.Thalacker & D.Cupal)

Not listed are other 12's to the right of Swedish Finger Yams.

12a/b: Wimbledon Sisters (FA) D.Cupal
12c/d: Schmoop (FA) D.Cupal & M.Solinko
12b: Project

Waiting until it turns colder to finish project--mega rattlesnakes Aug 2, 2014
Rich Kelly
Rich Kelly   Boulder
One can start the climb 10' right and use the crack (0.3 - 1.0 cams) to climb straight up to the 3rd bolt. This makes the climb 100% independent of Sunhat Memo. This variation is about 5.8. Sep 27, 2014

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