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Routes in Rat's Rock

Lost Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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GPS: 35.206, -106.452 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Chris Wenker on Jun 7, 2010
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details

Description

This summit lies southeast of Torreon. From a distance it sort of gets lost in the maze of walls and spires in Upper La Cueva Canyon.
Described by Hill's guidebooks (e.g., 1993:152-153). It appears that all the established routes are on the western aspect of the crag.

Getting There

We approached from the La Luz; continue down the switchbacks past Donald Duck. Once at the switchback that puts you below the Fin, bushwack north to the western base of the rock.
Once you've summited, scramble down the back side (east), turn north up the aspen filled gully, and then head east when the forested slopes thin out; you should intersect the La Luz again somewhere high up, near the first wilderness sign if you're lucky. Doing it this way means you shouldn't leave packs at the bottom of Rat's Rock, it would be a PITA to get back to them.

Alternately, maybe some variation of Schein's approach and descent to and from Torreon could be good too.

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