City of Rocks Bouldering
|GPS:||32.589, -107.975 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Lowell on Dec 12, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionCity of Rocks aka "CoR" is just that. A group of condensed boulders sticking out of the ground in the middle of a grassy desert meadow land, that resemble city building structures. Tall steep faced boulders and thumbs of rock, odd volcanic monolith formations that are made to boulder on.
The rock has a quality volcanic patina. Huecos, monos and deep pocket holds can be found here but in limited amounts. You'll be surprised to find a good amount vertical cracks which are sometimes called "meat eaters", taping up for them might be required. But most commonly you'll be cranking down on crimps and blades aiming for a group of monos or a single hueco while traveling up steep vertical faces. But you'll also find blunt overhangs and a few slabs.
The term "buckshot" is used for a face of rock packed with monos and divets which is a common rock feature.
The crag ethics are simple. No chipping of course. Limited chalk use and the park authorities also enforce the no bolting and or fixed protection rules. Deeming bouldering as the official sport of the crag. You may come across a rusty old bolt or piton that was placed before the park took over.
Several guidebooks mention City of Rocks like Stone Crusade by John Sherman "the verm" and Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas by Dennis R. Jackson. Here's a link to the latest guide dedicated to bouldering:
Southern New Mexico City of Rocks - Classic & Unique Boulder Problem Guide
Faywood Hot Springs is open again and climber friendly.
Blake's Lota Burger first thing when entering Deming on US 180
The City of Rocks BoulderFest is an Annual Climbing Event that happens every Oct.HALLOWEEN Weekend for more information visit City of Rocks BoulderFest
Getting ThereFrom Deming, take US 180 northwest 24 miles, and then go northeast on NM 61 for four miles to the park access road.
City of Rocks State Park Website Link
Classic Climbing Routes at City of Rocks
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season