City of Rocks Bouldering
|GPS:||32.589, -107.975 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Lowell on Dec 12, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
The rock has a quality volcanic patina. Huecos, monos and deep pocket holds can be found here but in limited amounts. You'll be surprised to find a good amount vertical cracks which are sometimes called "meat eaters", taping up for them might be required. But most commonly you'll be cranking down on crimps and blades aiming for a group of monos or a single hueco while traveling up steep vertical faces. But you'll also find blunt overhangs and a few slabs.
The term "buckshot" is used for a face of rock packed with monos and divets which is a common rock feature.
The crag ethics are simple. No chipping of course. Limited chalk use and the park authorities also enforce the no bolting and or fixed protection rules. Deeming bouldering as the official sport of the crag. You may come across a rusty old bolt or piton that was placed before the park took over.
Several guidebooks mention City of Rocks like Stone Crusade by John Sherman "the verm" and Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas by Dennis R. Jackson. Here's a link to the latest guide dedicated to bouldering:
Southern New Mexico City of Rocks - Classic & Unique Boulder Problem Guide
Faywood Hot Springs is open again and climber friendly.
Blake's Lota Burger first thing when entering Deming on US 180
The City of Rocks BoulderFest is an Annual Climbing Event that happens every Oct.HALLOWEEN Weekend for more information visit City of Rocks BoulderFest
City of Rocks State Park Website Link
Classic Climbing Routes at City of Rocks
Days w Precip