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Areas in City of Rocks

Aurora Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Murray Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pegasus Campground 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pickpocket Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

City of Rocks aka "CoR" is just that. A group of condensed boulders sticking out of the ground in the middle of a grassy desert meadow land, that resemble city building structures. Tall steep faced boulders and thumbs of rock, odd volcanic monolith formations that are made to boulder on.

Rock Features
The rock has a quality volcanic patina. Huecos, monos and deep pocket holds can be found here but in limited amounts. You'll be surprised to find a good amount vertical cracks which are sometimes called "meat eaters", taping up for them might be required. But most commonly you'll be cranking down on crimps and blades aiming for a group of monos or a single hueco while traveling up steep vertical faces. But you'll also find blunt overhangs and a few slabs.
The term "buckshot" is used for a face of rock packed with monos and divets which is a common rock feature.

Ethics
The crag ethics are simple. No chipping of course. Limited chalk use and the park authorities also enforce the no bolting and or fixed protection rules. Deeming bouldering as the official sport of the crag. You may come across a rusty old bolt or piton that was placed before the park took over.

Guidebooks
Several guidebooks mention City of Rocks like Stone Crusade by John Sherman "the verm" and Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas by Dennis R. Jackson. Here's a link to the latest guide dedicated to bouldering:
Southern New Mexico City of Rocks - Classic & Unique Boulder Problem Guide

Resources
Faywood Hot Springs is open again and climber friendly.
Blake's Lota Burger first thing when entering Deming on US 180

Events
The City of Rocks BoulderFest is an Annual Climbing Event that happens every Oct.HALLOWEEN Weekend for more information visit City of Rocks BoulderFest

Getting There

From Deming, take US 180 northwest 24 miles, and then go northeast on NM 61 for four miles to the park access road.
City of Rocks State Park Website Link

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at City of Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I do not know when the City of Rocks became a state park but the Southwestern Mountaineers, from Las Cruces, climbed there at least since the mid 1970s (both TR and bouldering). Apr 1, 2008
Lowell
El Paso, Texas USA
Lowell   El Paso, Texas USA
Yes. The crag seems to have a good history. You can read more in Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America By John Sherman. Where he writes a short article about how good there area is for bouldering and how the crag is home to several Murray routes on page 155.

If anyone has route and boulder problem information send it to beta@vcrux.com for the guidebook. May 11, 2008
Lowell
El Paso, Texas USA
Lowell   El Paso, Texas USA
The SoNew CoR guide is being published and will be in climbing shops during Christmas 2009. THANKS, to everyone who helped! Jul 31, 2009
Awesome bouldering area! So many great routes already identified, and potential for literally hundereds more. I believe the Pegasus area of the park is currently the most developed. Oct 27, 2009
Jeff Laina
Southern, New Mexico
Jeff Laina   Southern, New Mexico
I visited this area in early summer 2006, and I could not believe at all the Pillars/Boulders that looked liked they have never been climbed before, no heavy use of chalk, tick marks, etc. Lets keep it that way! Apr 15, 2012
Lowell
El Paso, Texas USA
Lowell   El Paso, Texas USA
The guidebook is out and can be found on Amazon - Google and here STATIC the Endless Knotvcrux.com The color guide costs more but is way worth it. I'm currently working on a Revised Edition that will be published this year. You can summit new problems and photos to email@vcrux.com Thanks

BTW - Don't forget about the Annual BoulderFest at City of Rocks!
This will be the 10th Annual Event EVERY Oct. 30-31 Halloween
City of Rocks Annual Halloween BoulderFest LINK May 29, 2013
TravisK
Phoenix, AZ
TravisK   Phoenix, AZ
This is a really cool park! Being a Midwest kid, I was blown away by the amount of rock and possibilities. There were some really fun problems. It looks like this place doesn't see a ton of climbing traffic so finding things was quite the adventure. Aug 17, 2014

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