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Routes in Spring Wall

Anger Management S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cleaning Lady S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
D.D.D. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Edge of Freedom S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall Harvest S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Yellow Jacket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horseshoe Pits T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Horsing Around T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leaner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pitching Box T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reallyfivenineplus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ringer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiger's Eye S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Description

This, the first wall you encounter on the approach, is easily identified by the striking corner system of D.D.D. (5.11a) and home to a nice collection of a dozen or so routes from 5.8 to 5.12a. The left side is a bit steeeper while the right is slabby with a nice concentration of routes.

Getting There

Park at the Lake George parking lot and start hiking on the Crystal Lake Trail. After hiking uphill for about 10 minutes some large water tanks will come into view - leave the main trail and head for these where you'll pick up another trail. Cross over the ridgeline and then contour along the hillside via a good trail that follows some water pipes until you reach a a fork in the trail (stay left) and the crag will quickly come into view. The left side of the Spring Wall is the first rock you'll encounter. The approach takes 15-20 minutes if you hit it right.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Spring Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiger's Eye
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
D.D.D.
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tiger's Eye 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
D.D.D. 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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kenr  
(N37.6022 W119.0185) or (37.6022, -119.0185) is the approximate latitude longitude I got from my GPS, two measurements separated by six hours.

Another way to approach is to start up the Crystal Lake trail, and continue on it past the water tanks (lat long ~ N37.6043 W119.0145). Above the cabins the trail climbs moderately along the SouthEast (left) side of the ridge with glimpses of Lake George. Then the trail bears right slightly (away from Lake George) and goes flat for about 100 meters. Before the trail turns sharp left, see a faint trail forking right (N37.6025 W119.0165). Follow that about 175 meters gentle West to the Spring Wall.

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the Lewis print guidebook says that some of the Horseshoe Piles crags were originally used for top-roping, and that most of the bolts were added only after 2000.

We set up Top-Ropes from some of the two-bolt or two-chain anchors on Spring Wall. We felt comfortable reaching only some of them with unprotected climbing moves. Some of the top anchors are set in the steeper rock below the slopy area above (with gentler rock slabs and dirt and vegetation).

We reached those top anchors by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. (We didn't try the Left side). Glad we had approach shoes with sticky climbing rubber. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and be careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt). Aug 3, 2015
Is it just me or are all these routes more like 70' Jun 8, 2015

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