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Areas in King's Bluff

Alley, The 3 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Beach, The 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Cake Walk Wall 4 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Corner, The 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Dynamic Wall, The 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
High Water Wall 3 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Horror Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
King's Bluff East 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
King's Bluff West 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lonesome Wall 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Navigator Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Orchard, The 3 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Politicians Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Quiet Zone, The 5 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Walt's Wall 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 520 ft
GPS: 36.502, -87.323 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Ben Bruestle on Dec 15, 2006 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
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Description

Nashville's closest climbing, King's Bluff is owned and managed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. Southern aspect guarantees sunny cragging year-round that is usually not crowded. Decent shade is provided by overgrowth in the summer. Direct sunshine in the winter. Limestone lines 5.4 to 5.13a with small edges, flexing flakes and sweet pockets. Mostly sport with a few trad and mixed routes. Approximately 150 climbs 35-70 feet tall. The top of the the cliff is off limits, so the only way to set up topropes is by first leading the route. No camping in the area. Consider making a donation to the SCC at the box located along the approach trail. There are plenty of places to buy adult beverages in Screaming Eagle country. Developed by Walter Wilkinson and Terry Parker in the early 1990's. Classics include Baby Kangaroo 5.8+, First Plum 5.10b, LAG 5.9 and Ritz Bitz 5.10c.

Getting There

You need to obtain the gate code from the Kings Bluff page of the South Eastern Climbers Coalition website in order to get in. Please keep the gate closed and locked at ALL TIMES as this greatly helps cut down on trash and vandalism. Thanks so much!
Located at the Max Court cul-de-sac in Clarksville. Approach takes less than 5 minutes to hike from the parking lot to the base of the cliff perched above the Cumberland River. From I-24 take exit 11 towards Clarksville. Follow Hwy 76 just over six miles west, crossing Hwy 41A on the way. Turn left after the Amoco station onto Max Court, go thru the gate and park at the end of the road. The descent trail is just left of the bulletin board.

157 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at King's Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leaping Ladder
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Fart
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Kangaroo
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overlooked
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wired For Sound
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.A.G.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fo Betta O' Worse
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Dagger
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The First Plum
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevator Shoes
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
When Old Friends Meet
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ritz Bitz
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Standing Room Only
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Name in the Guidebook
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prelude To Harvest
Sport
Leaping Ladder Cake Walk Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Old Fart Quiet Zone 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Baby Kangaroo Lonesome Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Overlooked Orchard 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wired For Sound Dynamic Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
L.A.G. Orchard 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fo Betta O' Worse Orchard 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Stone Dagger Quiet Zone 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
The First Plum Orchard 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Elevator Shoes Quiet Zone 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
When Old Friends Meet Dynamic Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ritz Bitz Lonesome Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Standing Room Only Orchard 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Name in the Guidebook Quiet Zone 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Prelude To Harvest Lonesome Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in King's Bluff »

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Dallas R
Traveling the USA
Dallas R   Traveling the USA
Thank you Southeastern Climbers Coalition for all the hard work that has been done in this area. As traveling climbers the little route labels make it super easy for us to find our way in a new area.

We got the gate code from the SCC web site but had a hard time getting it to work. Finally called local gym and asked about it. Found out that the lock does not work like forest service locks where you line the numbers up on the middle. There are very worn lines at the top of the lock, the combo has to lined up with those.

As we were leaving there was someone installing a new gate in a different location. Oct 10, 2017
I am looking to learn how to climb at the Bluff this summer. I live in Clarksville, have rope, GRIGRI, etc., but lack experience and a climbing partner. If interested, send me an email at ike.grall@gmail.com. Also, how do you get to the routes when the gate is locked? Jun 2, 2017
Question. Its clearly stated in the description so forgive me for the question.

Are there any routes that can be top roped without first lead climbing them? It makes sense that the private property at the top does not allow setup, but I was not sure if that really encompassed all the routes.

Thanks! Nov 19, 2016
Is there any good camping nearby? Nov 3, 2016
How are the walls after a rain? Are they wet or do they stay dry due to the tree canopy? Jul 8, 2016
Im looking for a climbing partner(s) if anyone is available either the 7th or 8th of July (this Thursday or Friday). Unfortunately I have left my draws back in Colorado but have all other necessary gear. If anyone is available to climb I can be reached on here or by e-mail d.alexprice@gmail.com. Jul 5, 2016
Andrea Warburton
las vegas
Andrea Warburton   las vegas
I'll be in Nashville for the weekend of Aug 5-7 and wanna climb but I need a partner! I'll be free sat morning the 6th. I'll have alli my stuff, just need a partner! Jun 9, 2016
Garrett Roberts
Rancho Cordova, CA
Garrett Roberts   Rancho Cordova, CA
I'll be back home in Clarksville from mid-may to mid-august and don't know any climbers out in the area. Is anyone looking for a climbing partner over the summer? Apr 12, 2016
Jeremy Almond
Las Vegas
Jeremy Almond   Las Vegas
Partner for sat Feb 6th
I want to climb but need a partner! Feb 2, 2016
I want to echo the comments of TK above, there are many, many beginners here that I have frequently seen doing things that are reckless if not completely dangerous. Many times I have simply left parts of the cliff for fear of getting involved with whatever accident ensues. I strongly encourage beginners coming to the bluff to enjoy the easier routes, but please, please go through the proper channels to learn important safety technique before climbing outside.

Similarly, if you see someone doing something that is completely reckless or simply uninformed, kindly ask them if they would mind some information that might keep them safer. Most logical people won't say no to that if you don't pose it in a condescending manner.

On another note, it's pretty common for the easier areas of the cliff to get super crowded on the weekends. I personally have been parts of very large groups many times. If you're bringing a group to the cliff just be considerate of others: try to break up into smaller groups if possible and just keep the noise down, people do live above the cliff in many places and even where they don't, it's doubtful people came outside to climb to listen to kids screaming or debates about which kind of pizza you like best. Consideration of others is especially important in areas with high concentrations of easier or moderate climbs. Safety is definitely compromised when climber and belayer cannot hear each other, especially if it's, say, someone's first time cleaning a route.

We all want to have a great time at the Bluff, if you're a beginner or new to the area just be sure about everything you're doing, and if you're not, don't be afraid to ask!

BG Oct 2, 2011
new guidebook for climbers living or visiting Clarksville. New Crag listed and recommended areas near King's Bluff.
Little Crimpers, A climber's Guide to Clarksville Jun 6, 2011
Route finding here is VERY easy due to the tags on the bottom of the routes. These were placed to prevent people from etching info into the rock, I suppose. If you want the guide book for the area, you'll have to get Hank Smith & Scott Griggs' book or check out seclimbers.org. Oct 30, 2010
TKHouse  
This message is in response to an incident at the Bluff last weekend in which a climber decked from about 25 feet up, rolled down the river bank, and had to be carried and taken out by boat.

King's Bluff has the highest concentration of low-grade sport in Tennessee. This provides an outstanding opportunity for new leaders to learn the basic skills of leading sport climbs. Because of this, King's Bluff attracts a lot of new climbers who may or may not have the necessary gear or understanding of cleaning sport routes.

I encourage any new climbers coming to climb at the Bluff to seek out proper instruction and/or ask any of the friendly climbers at the Bluff. Sport climbing can be done in a relatively safe manner, where most of the risk of injury can be mitigated by accepted practices and safety standards.

Accidents like the one last weekend put at risk the outstanding opportunity that the SCC and several Clarksville locals have made at King's Bluff. If someone suggests you are doing something unsafe, humble yourself and at least listen to their point of view. People aren't trying to put you down or act arrogant, but by doing something unsafe you are endangering the climbing for the other climbers who regularly visit King's Bluff. The climber injured last weekend repeatedly denied help from climbers in my group several times before he decked.

If you are unsure about something you have previously had explained to you, or simply in need of assistance, ask other climbers. Everyone I have met at King's Bluff has always been friendly and willing to help.

Safe climbing! Apr 21, 2010
Thanks for the info. I am not bashing this crag. It is a wonderful place to climb. There are more than a few bad bolts here though...even on the moderates (see Engineering a Goat Rope). Just about every bolt with a welded-shut hanger is extremely corroded. I'm not complaining (heck I would work to replace them if I were local)...just warning future visitors.

All that said..this is a fun place to put in some laps! Feb 7, 2010
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Thanks for the info Adam Jan 22, 2010
Adam Beck
Nashville, TN
Adam Beck   Nashville, TN
There are some bolts in need of replacement. Many of the bolts are good; especially on the more popular moderate routes. The name tags were made by a climber at Fort Campbell. We haven't heard much from him since 2007. Anyway he made and donated the placards to the SCC. They have been a great addition. You don't even need a guidebook!

This crag is extremely kept and beginner-friendly; especially when compared to some of the areas along the plateau.

But don't do any of the few trad lines you find here. The limestone is terrible for gear. It gets polished really fast because so many people climb it. Jan 21, 2010
This is a great little sport crag. Many of the older Walt Wilkinson bolts with welded shuts as hangars are severely rusted and need replacement soon....they are ticking time bombs. It seems this would have been a better investment of the SCC's time and money than the "disneyesque" nameplates that were installed. A couple of the bolts/shuts on Three Wishes and Baby I'm... are ridiculously rusted. Nov 25, 2009

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