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Areas in Peshastin Pinnacles State Park

Austrian Slab 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Dinosaur Tower 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Grand Central Tower 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Martian Slab 5 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Martian Tower 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Orchard Rock 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Sickle Slab 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sunset Slab 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Trigger Finger 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 1,345 ft
GPS: 47.542, -120.521 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 27,018 total, 199/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

Description

Peshastin Pinnacles is a group of sandstone towers and slabs an a hillside over looking the beautiful orchards of the Wenatchee River Valley, east of Leavenworth.
This park is closed in Winter.
There are some cracks, but most of the climbing is on slabs.
Check Park Rules at the kiosk, at the picnic area.
This area can get pretty hot during the summer months.

Getting There

This area is located just west of Cashmere. Take North Dryden Road to the parking area.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Peshastin Pinnacles State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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mark webster
Gig Harbor
mark webster   Gig Harbor
I've been climbing here since 1977. It can be raining in Leavenworth, but dry at the Pinnacles. For many years, you had to be very careful about what you got on to avoid routes with runnouts. But starting around 2014, sanity returned to the Pinnacles and a lot of new routes were added. And they were bolted for the grade, meaning, a bolt every 5 to 10 feet, regardless of difficulty. Also, some of the old routes got upgraded, so they aren't runnout anymore. You can tell which ones that happened to from the ground. If you see close bolts going up, they stay that way all the way up.

Some of the old classics remain unchanged, such as Fakin it, and Cajun Queen, but many others have been upgraded to modern safe bolting. Great places to start are Dinosaur Slab which has 3 closely bolted 5.6 or seven-ish slab climbs at the bottom right, where there used to be one with a runnout. Also Sunset Slab, all the routes are now safe on Sunset, and there are 3 new ones, very nice slab climbing, never dangerous. And only one is 9, the rest are 5.8 or less.

Austrian has also been upgraded with new bolts and new routes. Slender Thread is totally safe now.

It's funny how the old horror show rumors about the Pinnacles continue unabated. The parking lot is often almost empty. But little by little people are re-discovering the Pinnacles. There were 20 people there last weekend, having a blast.

The Pinnacles are coming back! May 1, 2017
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
I spoke with the parks, gate was unlocked today (3-28). it should be noted, Its in everyone's best interest to respect seasonal closures. Mar 28, 2017
SDGAP  
There are admittedly areas that have more spectacular climbing nearby, but Peshastin is perfect for moderate sport/trad climbing and there is still a lot of potential for new bolted routes, even for a crag that has been climbed for over 50 years.

For starters, the opportunities to climb outdoor in WA on March 19th are pretty slim. But, at Peshastin, the routes were dry, the sun exposure was perfect, and the climbing was great. Trails were all in great condition and approaches were all very clear. A previous comment mentioned that the bolts were too high but every route that we did had a lower first bolt that was not abnormal for a modern-day sport route. Obviously, I can't speak for every route but bolting placement did not seem to be any issue. The lower bolts were a much appreciated placement because some routes start on a steep belay perch on a bit of a long chute so the low bolts were great to have for safety of climber/belayer. The bolts/anchors for all routes we did were all solid so I have no qualms about their safety. If anything, the bolts were spaced close together so safety was not at all questionable. We did not climb trad on this outing but, other than off-season dust, the rock was solid.

It was a really fun location and I will be back to expose more people to this crag while the rest of the PNW thaws out. It is perfect for early season moderate climbing (and likely late season) while most peaks and hills in the distance are still covered in snow. And, the views from the crag really are beautiful and the approach is really close, albeit a steep start out of the car.

As of Sunday, March 19th, the park hasn't opened the gate for some reason so I did park outside with several other cars. In total, we saw 4 groups of climbers out including ours so you had your pick of just about anything on the wall. I would definitely recommend this spot if you want a good early/late season challenge on fun slabby sandstone!

Update: went back on 4/9/2017 and conditions were once again great, park was open as previously mentioned (Don't forget your Discover Pass), and once again, bolts and anchors were in great shape. Definitely more people out this time and it was nice to see a good deal of activity. Mar 20, 2017
Wanna hear something funny?

Just about everyone I know seems to think I like everything.

Close...

Except for Peshatstin Pinncles. This place is a steaming pile. I mean, yes it's pretty and the hike is nice. The climbing, however...

For starters, as I've always said the sandstone here is more sand than stone. I don't trust gear of any kind...including the bolts in sand. The first bolt on pretty much all the routes is up way to high.

I went here years ago with my sone thinking I'd find something fun to climb...we went to each cliff and even my young boy was commenting about how you'd have to be a daredevil to climb here.


So crappy climbing on crappy sand...with crappy protection.

What's not to dislike?

I give this place negative 5 stars. Which is truly a shame, since it's close to my home. Jul 11, 2016
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
This place has the aesthetics, and a moderately drier climate than Icicle or Tumwater, however, I would say stick to the Amazing Granite that Leavenworth offers. The sandstone here is crumbly and disconcerting. May 30, 2016
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
Good information on Peshastin located at:
justgetout.net/JGO/post/Pes…

Pictures of the area, some route topos, etc. Dec 26, 2013

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