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Routes in Gumby Wall

Chumming for Gumbies S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gumbuttress S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gumby Sanction, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tough Gumby S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Twisted Gumby S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Elevation: 7,682 ft
GPS: 32.401, -110.696 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Matt P on Feb 13, 2006 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

A sunny,exposed SW facing crag with very good quality rock. Good choice for a first time lead. Most routes are well bolted.
Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 Details

Getting There

Just after mile post 18 park at a pullout on the left (south) side of the road. Walk down the road (towards Tucson) for a short distance until you see an "Ice May Be Present" sign. Follow a faint trail up a small gully where the rock meets the road. A steep, somewhat awkward ascent brings you to the base of the crag. Traverse left and through a gap in the rocks to find the routes. Approach time 5-10 mins.

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Okay Kids, there are photos of the Gumby Wall in SQ III on pages 345 and 349.
These are taken from the highway you drive up. There is a black and white overhead showing you where Gumby wall is on Barnum Rock, it is on page 348. If you cannot find this cliff perhaps you should hire a guide. It boggles my mind at the inability of people to find a cliff they can look at and walk to! I guess some people have so little experience navigating outside this one is a real puzzler! Or they don't actually look at the book or the pictures. Apr 10, 2017
Parking and approach advice. You can also park right at and near the cut that leads up to the Gumby Wall. If you follow the directions for Barnum Rock or even Gumby wall in the book or even the main Gumby wall directions here, you will not end up at gumby wall, but rather Barnum Rock. You will have to go back down and around to get to gumby rock. So hike further back down the road and enter WELL BELOW the Ice sign, just after the main rock wall reaches the road. (learned this the hard way) The hike is pretty loose and steep with a barely visible path. When you get to the actual rock, you have to scramble up left to the actual base of the Gumby Wall. And climbs are great but stiff. If you are new to leading and are expecting the 5.5 to be super easy or the 5.6 to be an easy 5.6, take caution. While the majority of each climb is accurate, I rate the top of each climb a grade or two higher. 5.5=5.6/5.7 5.6=5.7/5.8 etc. Apr 9, 2017
Kevin Carmichael and Scott McNamara paid for the hardware on these routes so that novice climbers could get on the sharp end. I don't think there is a better beginning leader wall. Oct 4, 2015
Sam Thompson
Tucson, AZ
Sam Thompson   Tucson, AZ
Did this as a first time lead and it was pretty on point for that purpose. Pretty easy wall for the most part, tons of bolts, and the easiest route, Twisted Gumby, has a nice ledge to sit on and relax at the anchor to practice clearing gear and setting up your rappel. Belay area is nicely cleared. A boulder and some tall bushes/trees about 20 feet away for off rotation people to get some shade (a great spot to set up a hammock too). Relatively easy approach, though what counts as a trail was a bit hard to find. Oct 4, 2015
eddy  
There's a route that climbs the East facing wall to the right of Gumbuttress; at least there are four bolts on the upper section of this wall. Does anyone have information about this route? Nov 12, 2008
JmH
Arizona
JmH   Arizona
Gumby is a baaaaad man! Nov 18, 2007
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
before attempting the gumby wall all climbers are required to view this short video:
youtube.com/watch?v=PmcZYZP… Sep 13, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Yes. Or at least as far as I know. The Coronado National Forest website says all of Barnum Rock, and the Gumby Wall is part of Barnum Rock. Maybe someone should add the "access issues" note to this area. Aug 12, 2007
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
The rock here is bullet hard, and the holds are different from most Lemmon crags, i.e. sharply incut. Climbing these routes in stiff-soled hiking boots will add a level of interest, esp. on the upper section of GumButtress. Feb 19, 2007

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