Hangboard lockoffs

Saw a Beastmaker hang board routine that was a repeater set that involved a series of lock offs at different elbow angles while hanging off the edge. For example, 4 finger small edge, 6 seconds on 4 off for 6 reps, with full lock off on first rep, 90 degree lock off second rep, 135 degrees third rep, full hang 4th rep, etc.

I realize this violate the training isolation principle, possibly making it less effective at both finger training AND lock off training. I also realize that some folks think lock off training is not helpful for climbing.

Nevertheless, I'm curious if anybody has insights or experience with this plan to share.

I've trained lock-offs in the past and they can make you really strong. It's very confidence inspiring to be able to lock-off holds at will, and definitely help in climbing harder grades, especially on-sight.

However, they can also give you raging elbow tendonitis, to which I am prone. So if you have elbow issues at all, I'd pass on lock-off training or use it very sparingly and carefully. But if you're 22 and recover by the time you drive home from the gym, go for it.

So it's really a matter of whether or not that type of training is worth the possible injury/aggravation.

And I believe you are correct, if your goal is to solely train finger strength, best do that without the lock-off component.

Haven't used the Beastmaker plan but I'd be weary of using those guys' protocols (though their boards are tops), as I read some world-class climbers having difficulty with BM's "novice" programs. The BM guys are insanely strong.

Not sure if this is good advice, as I am not an expert. But what I did with my HB workouts is after I complete my rounds, or when I feel what I will do will not be productive, I stop, wait about 5-10 mins and do 2-3 sets of frenchies. Seems like frenchies are really good for lock offs, and could be your one supplemental exercise.
Maybe do variation of push ups in the tabata format after the hangboarding (to hit the opposing muscles), wait 10 minutes and do frenchies? That way you concentrate on your finger strength and lock offs separately.

Mark E Dixon wrote:I realize this violate the training isolation principle, possibly making it less effective at both finger training AND lock off training.

I'm not sure it does, as dead-hangs & lock-offs load the finger/wrist differently. On the other hand, I'm not sure I'd subscribe to the Beastmaker routine either, it seems a bit overkill. I do some pull-ups (*gasp*) on a fingerboard & that seem to condition my fingers for the lock-off position.

If you feel there's a big difference between what you can do on a pullup bar vs what you can easily dead hang off of (30 sec+), then maybe do some fingerboard lock-offs.

reboot wrote: I'm not sure it does, as dead-hangs & lock-offs load the finger/wrist differently. On the other hand, I'm not sure I'd subscribe to the Beastmaker routine either, it seems a bit overkill. I do some pull-ups (*gasp*) on a fingerboard & that seem to condition my fingers for the lock-off position. If you feel there's a big difference between what you can do on a pullup bar vs what you can easily dead hang off of (30 sec+), then maybe do some fingerboard lock-offs.

There's a big difference between my lock off strength on a pull up bar and on an edge, even a large one, so maybe I'll keep at this for a bit.

The elbow warnings are appreciated. No serious tweaks, but always a risk.

I've also started doing my offset pull-ups on the campus board instead of rings, wanted to try something different and I think its more climbing specific anyway. Makes you really work the lower hand.