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rappels off Matthes Crest?

Original Post
kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

What rope(s) for rappelling off the west side of the North (higher) summit of the Matthes Crest?

The most recent print guidebook and the MP route description for the South to North traverse both say double ropes. But I've seen at least one report of getting down with a single - (how long?).

Out there looking at the west side last weekend I could see bushes on the west wall of the North summit, which made it seem at least plausible there might be natural anchors for a sequence of rappels (or has someone installed some new hardware?)

Also there have been long-standing reports and advice that it's possible to rappel with a single rope from the notch between the South + North summits. Could this be done with a rope shorter than 60 meters?
A couple days ago I talked with two soloists who traversed only the south half of Matthes, and used a light rope to rappel from the notch, but I didn't think to ask them if their rope was shorter.

Ken

M A · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 22

I would second that comment and say only bring one rope. We humped two in and it was a bummer, definitely didn't need it. There are plenty of anchors people already left and natural (horns and trees) anchors too. Bring webbing you don't mind leaving just to be safe.

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

Horns abound. As do slings. Most of the descent is third class.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

Thanks a lot for those observations.
It's a long way to haul two ropes into Matthes Crest.

Ken

P.S. Makes me wonder where the idea came from that double-ropes were required.
like ...
see Here

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

It's long enough that you could use double ropes if you wanted to save time, but you'll be more likely to pull stuff down on you or get the rope stuck.

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

You can rap from the North Summit casually with a single 70 meter rope. 1 rap to the notch, downscramble 3rd class to an anchor (tree?)...rap again, to a tree again I believe, and then a final rap and 10' of 4th class downclimbing and the scree/dirt await you. No big deal.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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