City of Rocks aka "CoR" is just that. A group of condensed boulders sticking out of the ground in the middle of a grassy desert meadow land, that resemble city building structures. Tall steep faced boulders and thumbs of rock, odd volcanic monolith formations that are made to boulder on.
Rock Features The rock has a quality volcanic patina. Huecos, monos and deep pocket holds can be found here but in limited amounts. You'll be surprised to find a good amount vertical cracks which are sometimes called "meat eaters", taping up for them might be required. But most commonly you'll be cranking down on crimps and blades aiming for a group of monos or a single hueco while traveling up steep vertical faces. But you'll also find blunt overhangs and a few slabs. The term "buckshot" is used for a face of rock packed with monos and divets which is a common rock feature.
Ethics The crag ethics are simple. No chipping of course. Limited chalk use and the park authorities also enforce the no bolting and or fixed protection rules. Deeming bouldering as the official sport of the crag. You may come across a rusty old bolt or piton that was placed before the park took over.
Guidebooks Several guidebooks mention City of Rocks like Stone Crusade by John Sherman "the verm" and Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas by Dennis R. Jackson. Here's a link to the latest guide dedicated to bouldering: CLICK HERE
Events CoR Annual BoulderFest - Every OctoberCLICK HERE
Getting There
From Deming, take US 180 northwest 24 miles, and then go northeast on NM 61 for four miles to the park access road.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for City of Rocks:
A well known boulder problem established by the American bouldering legend Bob Murray. Other boulder problems and variations also exist....[more]Browse More Classics in NM
I do not know when the City of Rocks became a state park but the Southwestern Mountaineers, from Las Cruces, climbed there at least since the mid 1970s (both TR and bouldering).
Yes. The crag seems to have a good history. You can read more in Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America By John Sherman. Where he writes a short article about how good there area is for bouldering and how the crag is home to several Murray routes on page 155.
If anyone has route and boulder problem information send it to beta@vcrux.com for the guidebook.
Awesome bouldering area! So many great routes already identified, and potential for literally hundereds more. I believe the Pegasus area of the park is currently the most developed.
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