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Ice Conditions 2007/8
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By Buff Johnson
Oct 31, 2007
(As per Avery -- good idea to start a new topic from 2006/7)
ps - we're not related, I think, but he's not too bad for a Nelson ;)


Lincoln - 10-27/8-07 Main flow somewhat in but goes fat to super shitty-thin. Some 16s but mostly 13s in warm conditions; basically kinda sketchy on the exit moves. The sun is hitting the headwall & the pillars. Pillars not touching down. Maybe 2-3 weeks for better conditions. The decent through talus sucked ass!

From Avery RE: RMNP, Loch Vale --- Josh, the ice off the trail approaching loch vale was not in 1 week ago. Some ice was just starting to form, but none was touching down or reasonable enough to climb yet without destroying. We need more moisture and freeze/thaw!

From Kevin -- RE: Alexander's:

Climbed 5 pitches on Saturday 10/27. First 3 pitches (2.5 run together w/ a 70m rope) are good ice and snow. There is no ice above the chockstone rendering that pitch M5(+?)-ish from a consensus of 3 climbers. The pitch directly above the chockstone pitch has a thin smear of ice in the corner/chimney but is leadable (by my partner anyway). We rapped from the top of this pitch. Approach after rounding Chasm Lake is a bit of a pain due to post-holing between boulders. Lambs Slide has a bit of exposed hard ice but is mostly a decently consolidated snow climb.

From Chris - Had a great off season climb of the Keyhole Ridge this Saturday (10/20/07). As the route is typically listed in the rock sections of guidebooks, away from the classic alpine routes in the park, it is often overlooked for winter/mixed style ascents. However, the route is a fantastic outing when in more mixed conditions, with easy to moderate technical difficulties.

We brought two ice tools and crampons but climbed the route using one two and bare boots. The crampons turned out to be useful on the decent down the north face. Don't expect much ice, but plenty of mixed snow and rock climbing.

Also in the area: The Smear of Fear is looking to be in difficult but climbable shape; Alexander's is looking good as well. Dreamweaver got some traffic, it looked to have a few bare rock sections. We got look at The Window from Chasm View, but it looked to be just snow in the ramp leading to the namesake feature.

There was another report for Smear was in but for P1. There are a few pics on this site.

Ouray Ice Park
Opening 12-15-07

Basically, still warm & need more moisture, be careful. My exit moves on the easy 3 on Lincoln were dicey with exposed & loose rock. (Imagine that in an alpine setting? Well, yes, but this flow is basically & usually a straight forward fat 3 and good for breaking in first of the season leads).

By Kevin Craig
Nov 1, 2007
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Anyone been up to the Black Lake area, BL Slabs? West Gully??

By scooter
From Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2007
just being me...
Kevin Craig wrote:
Anyone been up to the Black Lake area, BL Slabs? West Gully??

climbinglife.com says the slabs and the west gully are both in as of 11/5. here's the link, complete with pictures at the bottom...


By Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Nov 7, 2007
FWIW, note those pictures are not necessarily from this year. My buddy thought those pics were this year. As of 4 days ago, West Gully's in, but it's not that fat. Black Lake Slabs are not that fat.

By logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Nov 7, 2007
Flakey Pull Roof v5
Vail is not even close.....
A few curtains are forming but nothing that could be considered climable.
Let's pray that this weekend gives us some snow!

By Stymingersfink
Dec 17, 2007
Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at An...
current conditions and updates on any area for '07-'08 are welcome on my thread here:


I live in the Wasatch Front area, but those crazy Canadians always seem to tempt me with stories of ice too...

By Dan Haedtke
From The Fort, CO
Dec 18, 2007
Has anyone been up to Loch Vale lately, how is it? Specifically, Crystal Meth/Loch Ness Monster area.

By kirra
Dec 19, 2007
Credits: Marty TwoBulls m2bulls.com  indiancountry...
heard 3rd hand conditions are good though believing that is spec at best. If your anxious, I'd check out the link that scooter mentioned above

Climbing Life

Eli updated yesterday the 17th. For specific routes, scroll down and he's offered up his personal em for direct communicado. He's Mr.RMNP so far in my book. During the week = best time

By solitudeclimber
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 11, 2008
Greetings everyone - I hope the ice season is treating you well.

Any recent updates on any of the UT ice, just wondering if the recent warm weather storms have had a substantial negative impact on the ice:

LLC - Scruffy Band
Santaquin (Squash Head, Back Off)

Any info anyone has on anything would be very appreciated


By Chris Craig
Oct 23, 2008
Looking for wisdom of crowds on climbing the V-notch mid November. Will I freeze my ass off, will I be post holing all the way in.

From sunny AZ

By Michael John Gray
From Queensbury, NY
Dec 1, 2008
im stoked on the quality of this wonderful climb!
In ADK ice Chapel Pond Canyon is good to go Canyon climbs are very top-ropable and Hot Shot, Crystal Ice Tower, Chouinard's and more have been led.. I here Cascade Ice Dance was touching down (but a dangerous lead) and practice areas are climbable.

Pitchoff, Screw and Climax is very thin but has been led, Arm and Hammer, Tendinitis area is getting climbed.

By Jeff Bevan
Dec 5, 2008
Anyone have a report on Lake City conditions? Specifically Sherman?

By mtoensing
From Boulder
Dec 11, 2008
Jeff Bevan wrote:
Anyone have a report on Lake City conditions? Specifically Sherman?

Hey climbed first three pitches of sherman last saturday and it was good. there has been some snow fall here lately, very high probability of slides so watch out. Very doable though, good stuff.

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Dec 22, 2008
Ghostride da whip!
Silverplume was in good shape yesterday (12/21/2008).

It was very crowded but everyone worked together nicely and made the most of it.

Go early because the ice gets melty in the afternoon sun.

Clear Creek was pretty much bare.


By Dave Pilot
From Boulder, CO
Dec 22, 2008
Jack Ripper
Moffat tunnel is good but not fat. Formed on left and right sides with rock in-between. Room for two ropes.


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