Bugaboo insider info request

Planning a trip, and I'm looking for some insider information.

which guide book/is it necessary to take up to the camp?

chicken wire? there is plenty at the parking lot or you bring your own?

worth it to double carry gear and food up to camp and live like a king?

status of rap stations/distance between?

best footwear for approaches to climbs?

double 60m ropes? single 70m? single 60m?

etc...?

The best guidebook is Bugaboos Climber's Guide by Atkinson and Piche. There were several copies of it floating around the Kain Hut.

There was plenty of chicken wire when I was there and the parking lot was full.

The hike in wasn't difficult. You could go heavy with food.

What rap stations I used were 25M or 30M. We did not use the Snowpatch Buagaboo Col because it was out of condition. There are some double rope rappels in that col.

Everyone is rocking the red La Sportiva Trangos.

We used a half rope setup with two 60M ropes.

We used two 60m halves. Worked well.

My partners used boots similar to the ones mentioned above, I opted for the guide tennies and strap crampons. Didn't work to bad honestly. My feet got a little wet so I could see that being a good reason to go with a boot. I was able to climb in the tennies, and I guess the same can be said for boots.

The hike in is short but steep. I wouldn't hesitate to pack a ton of shit. We had a lot and it wasn't that bad.

There is a ton of chicken wire, but if it's a busy time of the season there will be a ton of cars as well. Ideally someone is heading out when you arrive, and you just bum the wire they used.