Sharp granite bouldering. Years ago there was a TR competition but with the advent of modern crash pads, most people just boulder. Some problems can be high off the deck, but there is still plenty to do for those who don't bring an army of spotters and pads.
Most of the problems are slabs. There are, however, a few overhanging things around and a few nice crack problems as well. Supposedly, the boulders were pushed down at the head of a glacier years ago, remnants of the same rocks found throughout the hills of North Carolina.
The climbing is surrounded by a housing district. The boulders used to be twice as many, but many were blown up to make way for more development. Luckily, the Southeast Climbers Coalition (SECC) stepped in and bought the rest of the land that the rocks are on and saved what remains. Please stay on established trails and don't climb on private property.
Getting There
From Atlanta, drive west on I-20 to Fulton Industrial Blvd. exit. Go south on this road for 4 miles then take a left on Barkers Ferry Road (near the Post Office). This will run into Boat Rock Rd; take a left at the tee and drive about 1.5 miles to a small parking lot in the trees on the right. Boulders are on the south side of the road. Parking is limited and is located at the climbers information kiosk. Approach time is 30 seconds to the Easy Crack area and 5 minutes to the Yellow Arete area.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boat Rock:
Great addition...been meaning to get around to it. I will get some photos and route info up on the website. Also, the annual float the boat boulder comp in coming up in January.
Woods Hill - I hear the SCC now is leasing this land. But, are we still crossing private property to get to it? I would like to add it, but don't want to if there are access issues.
Just a reminder to everyone. Be careful in this area. Lock your car doors and cover up anything valuable you may have in it. Also if you see "suspect" looking people around the parking area wait or call the police. My friend and I were mugged at Boat Rock on new years eve of this year. After I was beat to the ground I was robbed. So keep an eye out.
You can download a Dr Topo mini guide to this area here. Supposedly there is a proper guidebook in the works, supposed to be out in 2010, you can probably find more details on the SEC website.
Van Michael
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