Best Aid Solo Device?

I've been tossing the idea around about buying a proper solo aid device. I've used a Gri Gri on a few wall routes, but am looking into other devices specifically made for this task. The two I am considering are the Wren Silent Partner and the Rock Exotica Solo Aid. Any advice regarding these two devices would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Bryan

I use the Silent Partner. Its expensive and bulky, but it works well once you have it dialed in. It takes a fair bit of practice until you really have it figured out. A lot of people give up before then so it gets a bad rep.

Rope diameter is very important. Use a new or near new rope around 10.2mm - 10.5, no thicker. Most people I know soloing aid routes use an unmodified Grigri.

Bonus: the Silent Partner was designed by a guitar maker (Mark Blanchard) - makes me proud by association.

I've never tried the Silent Partner, but it is HUGE and expensive. Probably a great device for free soloing.

I used a Solo Aid on my first solo of El Cap [Iron Hawk]. That was the last time I used it. I have been using an unmodified Grigri ever since. There are some tricks for rebelaying the lead rope - carefully and properly! - so the rope doesn't "pull through" your Grigri. See my Index to Dr. Piton Stuff at RC.com.

Like Pete, my first trip with the Solo-Aid was my last. The grigri is probably the ticket.

I don't have much good to say about clove hitches, either.

gri gri.

For what it's worth, I started with the clove hitch and moved up to the unmodified gri gri. Probably have about 20 pitches on it and don't see a reason to change. Plus lower outs are easy as pie.

Are you using a maillon to connect the grigri to your harness?

I use an oval locker and use some tape to set the gri gri in position so it won't cross load the biner. Sorta low tech, but it works well for me. I hear some people use steel biners, but I haven't seen a need for that.

"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:I've never tried the Silent Partner, but it is HUGE and expensive. Probably a great device for free soloing. I used a Solo Aid on my first solo of El Cap [Iron Hawk]. That was the last time I used it. I have been using an unmodified Grigri ever since. There are some tricks for rebelaying the lead rope - carefully and properly! - so the rope doesn't "pull through" your Grigri. See my Index to Dr. Piton Stuff at RC.com.

What did you do about the face pitches up top? Those always seemed like they would be scary on lead; I can't imagine how dicey it would feel soloing.

Gri-gri with a DMM Belay Master biner. works great, doesn't cross load. Then I use a ropeman assender or a tibloc to hold the weight of the break side of the rope.

I have been using the Solo-Aid for a couple of years now and I really like it as opposed to others who have used it.

my .02
--easily feeds slack with 1 hand
--lightweight, easy to set up
--will catch an inverted fall
--can't use it for anything else besides self-beley
--simple design
--it ties directly to your hardpoints (PITA taking on and off so I usually just keep it on all the time)

I have used a grigri and I always seem to have trouble with feeding slack out one handed which is why I like the solo-aid. You just grab the rope with your thumb and easily pull slack through. I always forget to give myself slack, so only having to use 1 hand is convenient for me.

Brian Sadowsky wrote:I have been using the Solo-Aid for a couple of years now and I really like it as opposed to others who have used it. my .02 --easily feeds slack with 1 hand --lightweight, easy to set up --will catch an inverted fall --can't use it for anything else besides self-beley --simple design --it ties directly to your hardpoints (PITA taking on and off so I usually just keep it on all the time) I have used a grigri and I always seem to have trouble with feeding slack out one handed which is why I like the solo-aid. You just grab the rope with your thumb and easily pull slack through. I always forget to give myself slack, so only having to use 1 hand is convenient for me.

I've been considering getting a Solo Aid for a while now, but there seems to be a lack of info out about them. But for what I do, it seems like the right choice.

My one question. I like Dr. Piton's method of cleaning a traverse with a Gri Gri (move jug above piece, fifi to jug let slack out with gri gri, yada yada yada), is that possible with the Solo Aid? Can you let slack out when its weighted? Having not seen one or heard much about it I am not sure what its capabilities are other than as a solo belay device.

John McNamee wrote:Are you using a maillon to connect the grigri to your harness?

I was asking myself this question as well just the other day.

The DMM Belay Master biner seems good but I'm not going to buy another carabiner because I already have gear coming out of my ears. Tape seems okay but not ideal.

So, does anybody use a maillon/screw link?

And, my Solo Aid is attached with a chunk of cord. I just got a Trango Cinch and noticed that the attachment point is thicker than a grigri. It's not as thick as the Solo Aid's attachment point but it got me to thinking about what point is the attachment point thick enough to allow the use of cord to attach it to my harness. Any thoughts?

The reason why I asked about the mallion is that a number of years ago a Brit was soloing Eagles Way and took a fall. His Belay Master biner snapped. Fortunately he lived to tell the story because he was tied into the end of the rope.

I think Pete knows all the details.

"The Best Aid solo device is one that works."

I've used clove hitches, soloist and a modified and unmodified Gri-Gri as solo methods. I currently prefer the modified Gri-Gri the most out of what I've tried, as this feeds well and has the handy lowering ability--I'll also often use it as part of my ascending system on the way back up. An unmodified Gri-Gri is fine for aiding.
The soloist feeds well, but I'm not overly fond of the chest harness need/inability to potentially catch some falls as well as it not being as easy to rappel with.

I've not used any special attachment systems for the Gri-Gri, but am thinking of finding something that avoids cross-loading. Has anyone tried a Petzl Omni carabiner for this? It seems like it'd work and be more user friendly than a mallion.
karstsports.com/pem46omloca…

Dan Mottinger wrote: I've not used any special attachment systems for the Gri-Gri, but am thinking of finding something that avoids cross-loading. Has anyone tried a Petzl Omni carabiner for this? It seems like it'd work and be more user friendly than a mallion. karstsports.com/pem46omloca…

Mallions work fine . Rated @ 5500 lbs . And best of all... Under three bucks !

I started soloing with the Clove Hitch and still use it on hard aid pitches. I use two opposite opposed locking beaners taped togater whitch helps to lousten the knot after a hard fall.
I have used A Gri Gri but stopped when I had herd that British guy got hurt on El Cap. I think it was something like the load during the fall is more on the Gri Gri because the rope running through gear and dragging on the rock isn't dissipating any of the shock from the fall. But when the blayer has the Gri Gri all of the factors above help to dissipate the shock more. But the main reason was I heard the guy got a fine because he wasn't using his Gri Gri properly (used for self belay instead of with a blayer). If any one had more info on this story and could set me straight I would be thanful?
I have used the Soloist but it is a pain I wouldn't recommend it unless you are just TRing something. Alto an ascender with a prussic above would be money better spent than a Soloist if that's what you are looking for. Rope size matters with this thing if you use a smaller rope you will need to buy a smaller cam for it. Also like the mod-Gri Gri you need a chest harness because it won't lock up if you fall upside down.
And last but definitely not least the Wren Silent Partner. It is the best all around device out there. I have been able to Red Point 5.11+ to 5.12- with it. Now I do not use it with the locking carabiner back up (when I stopped doing that I went up 1 # grade). What I started doing is putting half the rope in a rope bag on my back and the rope would drag around my body if I fall (wear a shirt, if you do fall and the SP dose not stop your fall your groin will meet Mr. Rope = pain). Use small ropes with this device the smaller the easier it will feed (they say to use 9.8 to 10.5 I think, but I use a 9.1 and it has held many falls with no slippage).

Matt R.:

"My one question. I like Dr. Piton's method of cleaning a traverse with a Gri Gri (move jug above piece, fifi to jug let slack out with gri gri, yada yada yada), is that possible with the Solo Aid? Can you let slack out when its weighted? Having not seen one or heard much about it I am not sure what its capabilities are other than as a solo belay device."

----Yes, using a grigri with 1 handled ascender works well for cleaning steep and traversing pitches. The solo-aid can basically only be used for belaying and nothing else. However, it is very lightweight and non-bulky, lighter than a grigri. Once the solo-aid is weighted you will have to unweight it in order to feed/take slack in the rope.

I have the Rock Exotica Solo Aid in virtualy brand new condition $50- if anyone wants to buy one. I am happy just using my Soloist for both aid and free climbing so I am going to sell my Solo Aid.

I've read up on this subject quite a lot cause i tend to do a decent ammount of soloing (I use a SUM auto belay for now, pretty much the same as a Gri Gri although I think the Gri Gri is better). From what everybody seems to say out there on the forums is that if you're aiding, then the Gri Gri is the way to go. The Silent Partner comes in is what you want when you want to climb pitches free. However the SP is about $250. I believe I also remember reading about the who designed it (or someone working with him) climbed a route on El Cap with the SP. Again, that would have to be a primarily free climbing route.

The SP isn't good for aid climbing because you have to reach a certain speed for the clutch in it to catch which makes the clove hitch catch. This isn't a problem if you take a small or big fall free climbing but for aiding it doesn't quite work like that. (I have read about too many people who like the Solo Aid)

So in short: Solo Aid Climbing: Gri Gri seems to be consensus
Solo Free Climbing: Silent Partner seems to be popular although folks also use the modified Gri Gri.
(personally I'm gonna see if i can manage to get a SP for my birthday since i do more free climbing than anything else right now)

hope this helps :)

Solo Aid, hands down is the best device. Its Small and effective.