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Ryan Jaret casually jamming the splitter handcrack...
This is one of the few moderate routes at Upper Blair, and is an excellent warm-up for the harder stuff in the area. Located on the SE face of Little John Tower, this pitch follows right-facing flake features to the obvious handcrack near the top.
The first flake can be reached from directly below, or more easily by following a dike in from the right. After the second flake, a weird traverse left gains the beautiful handcrack. There are excellent views of the Five Corners formation from the summit. Descend by scrambling down gullies on the north side of the formation.
Stoppers and hand-sized cams.
Brian jamming out the last of it.
Eddy running it out on the Baobab Tree.
Dylan belays Liz up the top part of Baobob Tree. ...
The Mighty Dr Ed Hartouni onsights the Baobob Tree...
BETA PHOTO: The route.
Apr 18, 2005
Recommended. The splitter crack at the top is deeeeelishus. Extra long runners at the flake (right before you travese left to the splitter crack) will help keep your rope drag manageable.
|By Brian Story|
Nov 15, 2006
The upper handcrack is one of the cleanest moderate handcracks I've found at Vedauwoo and not to be missed. The climbing up to the base of the handcrack is a little funky. Bring gear up to a #3 camalot and maybe a few extra hand size pieces.
|By Squatting Bear|
Aug 12, 2008
I would recommend climbing this in essentially two pitches. One to gain the base of the splitter, and two, the splitter crack itself.
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Aug 13, 2008
I agree with Squatting Bear. I did it in one pitch, but the funky climb at the bottom seems like an entirely separate thing than the lovely splitter at the top. There is a great belay ledge at the bottom of the splitter that would make it a logical, if non-traditional, way to do the climb.
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Aug 30, 2010
There are now anchors on this. A 50m rope will get you to the ground with just a smidgen to spare. The anchors are intended to keep someone from getting jacked up on the exposed and somewhat technical descent, but if you're a purist, just walk on past; the downclimb is still there for ya!
|By luke M|
Jun 11, 2011
Great climb. Interesting and varied up to a great "wide hands to fists" sized crack. I agree with the gear - doubles in hands and maybe a #5 for the traverse under the second flake.
I think the bolts on the top of this climb were poorly placed, but it's nice that there is some kind of rap descent. It definitely requires a couple of feet of exposed, crack/down climbing to get comfortably below the bolt hangers. Others may disagree. For a safety fiend like me, this should involve being on belay or tethered in some way.
Double ropes would make one pitch the ideal way to climb this.
Highly recommended. Enjoy.
|By Princess Mia|
Jul 17, 2012
Great route. The top is classic but big fists for me. Extra BD#3.5 came in handy. I was working pretty hard up there..... LOL
I did some sort of slither traverse.......super fun!!!
A 70m rope worked great for the rap with lots of extra. It seems as a 60m would be fine too, but I just don't see a 50m...... but I could be wrong......