A good laugh Ice drill

Luc that's perfect for hauling the kitchen sink up a bigwall.

Looks perfect for light and fast alpine climbs.

What happens if you drop the lube bottle?? We're never gonna score!

I saw this reviewed in the new issue of Rock and Ice, seemingly somewhat favorably...

Sometime in the mid 80s Rock and Ice produced a kind of "joke issue" called "Shlock and Vice" with various kinds of silliness in it, one of the articles I remember had a bunch of naked people standing around (on top of Mexican Hat, I think), ostensibly modeling "clear lycra". Etc...

Anyway, the review of this product could've been dropped directly into that "joke issue" with no alteration.

Pretty solid evidence that our sport has wandered a bit from its roots, if you ask me... Although I guess Cesare Maestri is among our roots, he'd probably dig this.

the drill weighs in at 2 lbs.

Here is the kit if you want to invent your own:
homedepot.com/p/Makita-12-V…

I wonder how Makita feels about their drill being resold under a different name?

I dunno... If taking chunks of ice to the face while wielding death spikes on your hands and feet is your version of fun, it might be a cool gizmo to have.

He could have at least clipped the draw in the right direction for the promo video.

fruitloop wrote:Wouldn't you need the $20 adaptor for every screw you plan on placing?? If so it's gunna end up costing $400+ ....Expensive!!

Also if you wanted to do some climbing without it (ie. use the drill for cragging and not for multipitch) then you would either have to be constantly be removing and reinstalling the adaptors or buy 2 sets of screws.

Curious how much the adaptors weigh?

TBlom wrote: I wonder how Makita feels about their drill being resold under a different name?

I'm sure they are well paid for it.

oh, we have Frederic Dion in Quebec that designed his own without a screw attached adapter:

youtube.com/watch?v=wTsQ-Q_…

LOL, by the time the person in the video spends dicking around just to get the drill rigged with a screw, I could place a screw, hang a draw and clip the rope! And he's doing it from a basically no-hand stance, not sure why you need a drill if you can go no hands.

I saw the guy behind this testing a prototype model at moffat tunnel a couple years back. My thoughts then haven't changed. A: It's a neat idea, always have respect for tinkerers. B: This thing is going to get skewered on Mountain Project. C: I personally see no practical use for this in my gear collection.

The Craftsman Powered Dark Ages Manual Model...They stole the idea I stole.

Phil Berggren wrote: The Craftsman Powered Dark Ages Manual Model...They stole the idea I stole.

Ha! What a blast from the past! Did you use this when you led the Designator in 1978 with a Forrest Serac Saber and a Chouinard North Wall hammer? I think you may have developed it after that epic lead.

Years ago I too had thought about doing something like this. I used to find it hard to start the screws. I came up with a super light ratchet that starts the screws easily but you still needed to finish screwing it home with the crank. It worked amazing and since it was made of titanium and didn’t actually incorporate a ratchet but rather a one-way friction mechanism, it was lighter than a modern karabiner. Eventually I didn’t pursue the ratchet because once I learned to sharpen the ice screws I no longer needed an attachment to make it easier.

Phil Berggren wrote: The Craftsman Powered Dark Ages Manual Model...

Actually, adding a ratchet system is not a bad idea. The main problem I have with screws comes when I've made the first turn as far as my wrist will allow, and I have to let go of the screw briefly to reset my hand. Has it bit well enough to hold itself there? In friendly ice no problem, but in really brittle ice it can be a PITA.

Andrew Yasso wrote:There will come a day where someone creates a self driving screw that weighs half the weight of the current generation. Although, I heard in Russia ice screws already drive themselves. Aleks?

I bet Aleks just slams the screw directly in with his meaty palm.

Perhaps this new drill will herald a new age of top-down sport-ice climbing! Get those screws in fast before the ice melts! Global warming and all, eh?

I think it's kinda cool! I don't really see the difference between using a rotohammer for drilling bolt holes, and using an impact driver or drill to drive ice screws... except that the ice screws do no permanent damage. If you use the right tether, you'd be able to drive screws either right or left handed, and trust me, with a little practice, this tool would very much speed up the setting of screws. It won't make a huge difference on a single pitch; on a 9 pitch route, it would be a game changer.

Personally, I'd try to come up with an adapter than can handle any brand of screw, and I'd also use an 18 volt instead of a 12 v. Not a lot more weight, and tons more torque and speed. As far as bottoming out screws, I use impact drivers almost daily, and you learn pretty quick how to regulate driving to a given depth (and yes, you'll overdrive some screws here and there. It's going to come with the territory)

As far as using a power tool to drive ice screws or not, it's the same question to me as "hand tools only for woodworking, or do I use power tools also?". The usual answer in woodworking is, 'the more power and the more stationary the tool, the less connected you feel to the material'. Beyond that, we have the question of whether or not the noise is going to be acceptable out in the woods.

I really, really admire the crossover use of the technology; whether or not I'd dare to use one with climbers on the route next to me hearing that machine banging away, I'm not sure.

caribouman1052 wrote:I think it's kinda cool! I don't really see the difference between using a rotohammer for drilling bolt holes, and using an impact driver or drill to drive ice screws...

The difference is one always needs a tool of some kind to drill a bolt hole. 99.999% of ice screws are placed with nothing but the climber's hand.

Why bother trying to lead if that's how you play the game...

This gimic is pretty amusing.