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Member Since: Feb 19, 2008
Last Visit: Jan 22, 2009
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 17 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts | Stars | Ratings

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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Y-Crack (5.10d)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 20, 2008

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Comments: I did this in early June '78 with a guy from Pennsylvania named Michael, who claimed he was a Green Beret deserter. (He also claimed to have been one of the first on scene to pack out Crash Dope from Tuolumne that winter. Whatever its origin, it worked very well.) Approached via Mail Chute, a long, wide 5.7 chimney. Y-Crack itself two pitches, then rapped back to ledge. I don't recall if there was much more to do--I was wiped and barely made second belay. Very smooth cracks with few useful face ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Jean (5.9+)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Worthwhile, quite strenuous. Largely ignored. I did this with a friend who weighed almost 200 lbs. He couldn't do the roof and I lowered him with my head braced against a tree, on a waist belay, shirtless. Nice slow rope burn.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Phoebe (5.10+ R)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: I didn't forget this. It's a very hard, tricky little stretch. Bizarre footwork at crux--definitely hard 10. It had a single old bolt, and you'd deck if you fell on the 5.9 above crux. Top rope all the way.
Charie, face immediately right of Boston, is an excellent toprope as well. Stiff 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: September '76, third day ever climbing. We both fail; lower off crux pin, leave biner. Sulking a bit, then notice a tall chap with a coiled rope over his shoulder, angling up solo from the left. He's wearing a white cap.
"That your biner?"
"Yeah."
"You want it?"
"Uh, sure. But don't put yourself out, man."
A few moves further, drops us the biner...then easily continues up a thin line left of Pas de Deux. At the same time we both say, "It's Henry Barber."
He finishes the pitch--Heather,... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Absolutely worth doing. One of those upper pitches--similar to Three Doves--often overlooked because lower part is average. What I most recall is the pure white face right after the roof. Vertical, thin, exposed.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Essential route. Personally, of the three hard sections I found the first overhanging corner the easiest. Looks intimidating from stance after clipping pin, but just a matter of committing and grabbing big hold on nose. (Rope was behind my left leg and pinned me halfway through the sequence swinging onto face.) Bulge after that quite strenuous and requires more moves. Most folks probably consider roof beginning second pitch an afterthought. I did, and had to really pump to make it. Wonderful cli... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria (5.6)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Direct start definitely the way to go; third pitch mandatory. Get a big nut as far out in the lip as you can. I heard someone came off and broke ankle swinging into wall. The overhang is very big. (Maria Redirect, next crack right from start, is excellent toprope but awkward to rig. 5.10+ technical shallow laybacks.)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Crux pitch is excellent. Strenuous, really on you for about 15 feet. Exposed for Gunks. Big holds; 5.7 if vertical. Those in marginal shape--as I was when led this--can step left to place gear and back to ledge to rest before committing. Don't bother with lower pitches. Scramble up 5.3 face just to the right of start to the good part.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Frustration Syndrome (5.10c)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Excellent pitch. Not sure I'd give it 5.10c, though. (Not a Gunks 5.10+; graded 5.9 in Blue Book.)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Easy Overhang (5.2)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Fun easy route. Spring '77 took a girl up this and she literally froze at the second belay. (Small ledge, very exposed.) For about 30 seconds she just stared into space. Soloed a few times--once stoned, wearing work boots. I miss college....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Morning After, next climb right, is much better. Three excellent pitches. One of Gunks' best 5.7s.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Commando Rave (5.9+ PG13)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Went up on this September '77. Made mistake Blue Book cautioned against: "Despite bravado suggested by name, it's wise to think this through before attacking." I bolted over first roof and onto the face...onto the face...no hand holds. "Eyyagghhh!" 15-footer onto ancient pin. Ass dangling just above an angular boulder. "Trusty rusty" indeed. I haven't been back.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Comedy In Three Acts (5.11)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: This is one of the weirdest pitches I've ever tried. The moves leaving "crack/pod" are somewhere, but I didn't find 'em. I vividly recall slotting a #3 stopper upside down, and getting about two feet above it. Three attempts over a couple of months--ended up exactly the same place each time, splayed out in an exotic pose on a tiny edge and a miniscule scoop.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Try Again (5.10b)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Very fond of this pitch. First 5.10 lead, mid-October '77. Late afternoon, windy and faint rain. Crux corner works up nicely 5.8, 5.9 a few moves each; good stance for pro. Then two quick hard moves past the roof. Flashed it. Smug satisfaction as my two companions--both considerably better climbers--grunted ponderously through the crux.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: In my opinion, one of the Gunks' best routes. First pitch has great face climbing, a big flake to fool with; second pitch roof is full body-length but well protected, with a nice little 5.7 runout above.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disneyland (5.6)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: In the spring of 1978 I took a friend up Disneyland for his first climb. He managed the first pitch okay, but ran out of gas on the second. Another friend who was with us came up the easy path from the north and joined me at the belay atop the route. He had a six-pack which we began while our pal thrashed on the face below. (He claimed his jeans were too tight to make a high foothold.) After a few minutes it was clear he couldn't finish the pitch, so we tried dragging him up. He was pretty heavy... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Criss Cross Direct (5.10a)
By: JoeLeiper When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Did this route Spring '78; led 2nd pitch. I recall a small stopper shortly off the belay, and that was it for next 15 ft or so. The runout's on a beautiful face--a couple 5.9 moves halfway but all nice edging, nothing weird. Keep in balance and think it through. Fond recollection of being confident, focused, moving easily, totally unaware of the unpleasant fall.