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Quality Corner
5.8,
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 0 from 0
votes
FA: unknown
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> Juniper Canyon
> Jackrabbit Buttress
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There
are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The
Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations:
Black Velvet Canyon,
The Hamlet,
Kraft Mountain Area,
The Gallery, and
The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Some good rock and fun climbing on this one. Some sandy sections.
P1: Fight oak bush to start in left-facing corner w/ 2 cracks; up cracks 15 feet to ledge. Then 60 feet of amazing black rock, corner, & climbing. 30 feet of sandy climbing gets you to a belay at a spacious stance below a parallel-sided chimney or an escape left through a tunnel to walk-off to the start of Geronimo. P2: Up the chimney (stemming); up the right facing corner above. After 40 feet, the quality rock ends. Belay where you get to. P3: Escape by traversing (north) along a chasm that leads to a spacious tunnel/arch and the happy place.
Descent: From the happy place, it is possible to tunnel (climber’s) left under blocks and climb easily along a ledge system to Make Me an Angel and then scramble up, then down to the final 200’ rappel on Geronimo. Alternatively, it is possible to bushwhack down the gully to the north—toward Olive Oil/under Cottontail Tower.
Location
Start behind a pesky oak tree cluster at the base of the prominent, left-facing corner system left of Juggernaut.
Protection
Standard rack, maybe camalot extras, .75-3 and a #4; I carried a 5 and a 6, but don’t remember using them in anger