Southeast Face
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 48.78559, -116.72045 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 117 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Marc Chalfant on Jun 30, 2025 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
The route starts on the slab on the far right (east) side of the southeast face, just left of the vertical faces that form the East Buttress.
P1 - Climb the 5.8 slab with minimal pro through a slabby crux to reach the double flakes. Be prepared to commit because pro is sparse and a downclimb would not be fun. Jam, layback, and/or stem up the flakes through the next crux to where the left flake turns into a mellow ramp that makes a good belay.
P2 - Continue up the ramp and up the clean, rounded dihedral leftwards before stepping right onto the slab. Aiming for the notch up and to the right, make an exposed move across the slab to reach a great belay at the notch.
The typical start of the East Buttress route is down and to your right.
Either scramble down the east buttress approach or continue on to link up the East Buttress to the summit and descend the south slab rappel, the second and last station of which was recently bolted.



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