Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS: 31.81515, -110.40895
FA: project.
Page Views: 171 total · 6/month
Shared By: drewp on Jul 7, 2024
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Originally thought this would be a long pitch, I decided the big tufa gong flake is best left alone, partly because there are a lot of bats living under it, partly because if would take half the wall off.

In any case, the hardest and best climbing is to the bolt just below the flake, which is also a no hands rest, so sensible to break it up. For me, this pitch involves an undercling mono match, a sideways dyno, and a huge move to an undercling tufa pinch. ~V8. There is also a mini rp crux before the no-hands. Action-packed and very cool pitch.

If you decide to climb the second half (El jefe?) you can climb to the right of the tufa on the face. ~V6 crimp boulder to 50 feet of 5.10 on wild flowstone. Second half is probably a little under-protected, but there are chains, way up there. You really can avoid using the tufa, but you are directly above your belayer.

Location Suggest change

There are 4 hard routes next to each other, on the far left side of the crag. This is the first one you will see. A notable feature is the hanging death gong tufa. Belay near what I assume is the bottom half of this tufa lying on the ground.

Protection Suggest change

There is no midway anchor (feel free to add, I will if I make it back). I would suggest to lower off the last bolt before the tufa flake. Second half is more runout, but there are chains with lower offs at the top.

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