Slabalicious

I've been looking at this big beautiful slab for years. Then when the landowner wanted me to develop a route there, I got to work. Because of sketchy top access, my friend and mentor Mikey G. and I had to improvise with anchors way above and far back to the climber's right. That presented a challenge because of the way the rope hung from the anchors to the start - risking a big inside swing into the wall adjacent to the slab. Mikey suggested a directional bolt on the headwall at the top end of the slab. Now that presented three challenges. 1. Getting safely to the directional bolt. 2. Throwing the rope down so the climber side goes to the climber's left of the tree next to the directional, and the other goes to the right of the tree. That eases the friction of the belay going through that system. And 3. It's hard to throw the rope sides so they make it to the ground. Complicated? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.

Crux is down low on each line. The slab is... slab. Great to learn to smear and trust those feet. Hands are spars but who needs hands when you can smear your way up! :) Go all the way up the slab to the headwall and touch the top of it for the finish.

Eventually I plan to bolt this for sport and that will eliminate all the complexities and make it even more fun. For now though it's TR and you'll have to deal. :)

Route Grade Note (refer to route photo): Main 5.4 route in solid yellow. Harder line middle yellow dashes (maybe .6). Even harder line far left (maybe .7) dashes.

Main Wall Area. Far left end. Left of The Buttress.

Anchors above with directional bolt on top of the headwall.