Devil's Snare

Really a P1 variation to Magic Staircase:

Start around the corner to the left of the start of that route, at a clean white face split by a hand crack that currently sports a couple small plants and tufts of grass. I cleaned some of this out, but its still a bit of an adventurous start. The hand crack soon turns to offwith: this is currently the crux of the route, thanks to the several inconvenient shrubs that I was unable to remove by hand (these plants are the namesake of the route). Hopefully with traffic this will mellow out to clean 5.9/10- OW. A small ledge gives a much needed rest, followed by the second crux: an improbable (and unprotectable) stembox between two flared cracks. This section is short (just 2-3 moves), and there is good gear immediately above (BD 0.75), but the rock is still a little flaky here and the gear is below your feet with some small ledge fall potential, thus the PG-13 rating. A mantle leads to another ledge: take the farthest right (and obviously easiest) cack to gain the 5.2 terrain above that leads to the second pitch of Magic Staircase.

Directly under the P2 corner of Magic Staircase.

single rack to 5.