PRINT: Rock Climb Evolution, Lyons

Evolution

5.12c/d, Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: P2: Bernard Gillett and Doug Snively (2008), P1: Collin Turbert (2019)
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Trojan Bunny Buttress

Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details

Per Climbing Puerto Rico: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.

From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.

During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.

codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…

Description

P1. The first pitch of this old aid line goes up the left-leaning crack to the base of the monster roof. Pro through this section looks sparse from the ground but is adequate. Take a breather, bust out the body length roof, turn the lip, and finish on hero jams to the anchor (40' 5.12+).

P2. Continue up the left-leaning crack system all the way to the top of the wall, ending at The Bucket List anchors (80' 5.11d).

Alternatively, one can follow Money Back Guarantee (12a) or Retrobution (11c) to the top instead of the original P2.

Location

This is the prominent roof crack coming out the middle of the buttress. It is located between Crawfish and Only a Flesh Wound.

Protection

A standard rack to #3 and a #5 (optional #6).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the closest you can get to doing a figure four without doing a figure four.

Just after pulling the roof.

Pulling the roof on the FA.
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Photo credit: B. Robinson.

Pulling the roof on the FA. Photo credit: B. Robinson.

Evolution - blue.
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Money Back Guarantee - red.
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Retrobution - green.

Evolution - blue. Money Back Guarantee - red. Retrobution - green.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cedar Wright

I did the spectacular first roof pitch of this today... "pinkpoint" mostly, because taking the gear out is a bit more trouble than it's worth. This is a really cool burly roof encounter, with some really fun 5.11 approach climbing. I'd recommend using the 5 Camalot in the roof not the 6 as you kind of need to stick your foot where the 6 goes. Fun heel toeing and very bad flaring hand jams makes this thing a bit of a puzzler. I left a stopper at the beginning of the roof to clean it but would definitely not recommend clipping it, as it was placed for outward not downward pressure. Great climb... get on it. Jun 3, 2020