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Routes in Dragon's Spine

Apocryphal ArĂȘte T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b WI1 R
Green Couch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Towers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 850 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brady Deal and Lang Van Dommelen, 2015
Page Views: 333 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brady Deal on Jul 30, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


Climb from the base of the Dragons Footstool through thin seams, sparse cracks and good chicken heads. All pitches were climbed with a 70m rope.Gear is good when you get it, but can be R-rated at times. All the rock is very positive and strong. Belays are all conveniently located on ledges, although some simul-climbing is require on a few pitches (~25' at most).
This route is a direct start into the route "The Two Towers", and was also climbed in hopes of doing the Complete Dragon Spine Traverse. Rappel off the back and climb directly onto the ridge proper and into "The Two Towers"


Travel down the Pika Glacier, across bare ice (depending on time of year), and over moraine. Hike the choss gulley/fan to the base of the footstool and start on the obvious ledge.


double rack to 3", set of stoppers. No fixed anchors or gear on route.
Sling anchor located on a block on the back of the tower to rappel into the gulley.



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