Sergeant Slaughter
5.12b PG13,
Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
FA: FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten - 1984FFA: Brian McCray, Roxanna Brock - May 1998
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Rainbow Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Sergeant Slaughter is a burly adventure route with a few really good pitches. Though it has a reputation for loose rock, the only really bad one is the exit pitch. Great views, comfy belay ledges, and varied climbing that will demand much from the leader. This is one of those routes that feels a bit more like Yosemite than Red Rocks.
Identify the obvious right-facing corner of the crux second pitch at the far left end of the Rainbow Wall. The start is actually even further left than this, down around the corner from the massive apron of mossy slabs. Best to stay low when approaching.
P1: Climb a long, slabby crack. Lots of vegetation here but that's just the way it is. Belay at fixed nuts at the left end of a long ledge system capping the apron. 150', 5.7.
P2: Up the left side of a narrow, green pillar with good pro. Step right at the top to the first of two right-facing corners. Tips liebacking leads up to a roof. Arrange pro and step right again into the massive, steep corner. More tips liebacks that suddenly open up wide. A physical struggle ensues on the way to a bolted anchor on an exposed ledge out left. 120', 5.12b.
P3: Delicately tip toe up a pizza-box flake right of the main corner before moving up into the flare above. A bit frightening but it's over quickly. Enjoyable chimneying and thrutching leads to a steep, awkward finish at a bolted anchor. Easily linked (recommended) into the next pitch - this is just the warmup! 100', 5.11a PG13.
P4: "This pitch is called the Bitch Pitch and you will find out why," says first ascensionist and guidebook author Roxanna Brock. I have nothing to add. 60' to a bolted anchor, 5.11c.
P5: An interesting pitch. Traverse right off the belay passing a bolt, then up a crack to the Rotten Honeycomb Pillar. Careful here. Move right again past another bolt and then up easily to a bolted belay on a nice ledge. 130', 5.11a PG13.
P6: Climb a narrow, decomposing left-facing corner, then step right and continue easily up to the massive bivy ledge. Belay off a bolted anchor. 110', 5.10a PG13.
P7: Move/extend the belay far left in an alcove at the base of the gaping chimney. My partner (the late Brad Gobright - God bless him) refused to do this which led to me indulging the temptation to tunnel deep into the chimney in hopes of finding security only to get stuck necessitating a down climb. Instead, confidently chimney straight up to a lone 1/4" bolt* which can be backed up with a #5 Camalot. Shortly above this transition into a lieback and continue up and left onto the top of a blocky, exposed tower. From here, move up a right-facing corner with spaced gear and then step right (exciting) to a seam. Continue up this and through a difficult Western Rosebud tree growing out of the crack, and belay on a great ledge with a bolted anchor. 140', 5.11a PG13.
(*)The 1/4" bolt on this pitch is a bummer: If you trusted the bolt, or if it were replaced with something more bombproof, you could conceivably leave the #5 Camalot behind and go a bit lighter with the rack. Perhaps the next party up could bring a bolt kit instead of the #5 Camalot, replace this sucker, and do all future parties a huge favor?
P8: Clip another 1/4" bolt a couple feet above the anchor and immediately bust left onto the arete and face climb easily up. Move right to an obvious, attractive flake, then move right again and continue up blocky rock to a bolted anchor. 110', 5.10c.
P9: Move down and left from the belay underneath a massive hanging slab and then up onto the slab at a blunt arete via some slightly hollow rock. Clip a bolt, and continue up and left into a long, weird corner with tricky pro. Pull awkwardly over and belay off a pine tree on a big ledge that feels like it should be the top. 110', 5.10c PG13.
P10: Climb up the loose face behind the pine tree for about 150-200'. There is decent pro but an abundance of loose rock. 175', 5.8 PG13.
Rap the Rainbow Wall route proper.
Protection
2 each black Alien/purple C3 to #2 Camalot. 1 each #3, #4, #5 Camalots. Stoppers, many slings.
A bolt kit and two bolts - replacing one of the quarter-inchers will eliminate the need to bring a #5 Camalot. And may as well replace the other one while you're at it.
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
We have some beta we thought was worth adding to the above description and the Handren guidebook. We found some of the pitch ratings to be inconsistent with other Red Rock ratings. Not looking to create controversy, just add our 2 cents to a seldom climbed route for the next party.
Suggested rack was adequate, we found the #5 useful in a few spots. Despite all the wide climbing, the route mostly protects with smaller cams.
P1): 5.10 200+? ft- Do the first 5.7 pitch, instead of stopping at the fixed nuts continue up the first part of the crux pitch up the first corner. Build a belay after stepping right into the next corner at a decent stance (BD cams .3-.75). We ended up bumping the belay to this stance and found it less awkward than the nut stance, a better belay, and avoids having your rope running over a sharp arete while climbing the crux. It appears there is a bolted a variation slab start to the right of the original start. We did not climb it, but it looks like more fun than the mossy 5.7 and well bolted but harder.
P2) 5.11d- STEM up the next corner, using the tips crack for pro. Fun and improbable. At the roof do bouldery moves right and establish yourself in the lieback. The lieback crack is actually .3s and even my large handed partner found bomber fingers. The liebacking is over quickly and then you get into a fairly enjoyable 5.10 OW. We had climbed cloud tower the day before and felt that the crux of Cloud was harder than this pitch. Grade aside this pitch is excellent, varried, and worth climbing on its own!
P3) 5.11c PG13- The moves around the flake are definitely insecure, and you have to be very careful where you place gear. This pitch felt harder than the "Bitch Pitch". We found the exit moves to this pitch to be burly, and unique. Enjoy!
P4) 5.11b- "The Bitch Pitch" I would not consider myself an offwidth climber by any definition, and I found this pitch surprisingly enjoyable. Go do it!
P5) 5.11a PG13 - This is where the quality starts to decrease. The honeycomb pillar is exciting. The moves after the 2nd bolt getting to the belay are 5.11- and insecure, and can be protected by a micro nest. If it failed you'd be looking at nasty whip into the pillar (R).
P6) 5.9 R - I think Sam got in 1 piece of gear on this pitch that would have held a fall, but the climbing is easy. Tiptoe carefully through the choss to a possible bivy ledge.
P7) 5.11b/c PG13 - We didn't move the belay into the chimney, which seemed fine. The chimney climbing is easy, transitioning into the lieback is not and felt like one of the harder moves on the route. Maybe we did it wrong. The bolt felt unnecessary and wouldn’t protect the fall well, you’d want a 5 either way. There are some insecure 5.11- moves up higher on this pitch, and some questionable rock right afterward. Belaying on top of the chimney would be a better belay if you were worried about these moves. Otherwise this pitch would get an R rating,
P8) Nothing to add.
At this point we decided to rappel with two ropes. You can rappel down the top few pitches then continued down raps on the steep part of the wall just right of the route. The lower pitches are equipped for rappel, but the bitch pitch looks like it would eat ropes for breakfast. Apr 23, 2021
Changes with the seasons