Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 619 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Apr 22, 2012 with updates from Tiffany Samson
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Straightforward climbing down low brings you to a tricky finishing sequence on much smaller crimps.

Location

First bolted line right of Wild Dogs

Protection

5 bolts and chain anchor with quickclips.

Photos

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
You can wimp out and finish right in the crack it seems or stay left in the natural line. If you stay left of the bolts, on the crimps, I don't think there's any way that this goes at 10a though. A one move wonder, and not a great one at that. Mar 9, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
fairly typical of Vantage, if not incut jugs, then balancy crimpy. This one is height dependent, if you are tall it is still hard at the top, but you will be through it quicker. I think this is one of the better short 10a sport routes. Feb 16, 2016
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
5.10c
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
5.10c
By Vantage standard direct finish doesn't feel like 10a. Harder than either e.g. Narlux or the 10b/c next to it. Apr 23, 2017
Erik Green
Seattle
  5.11a
Erik Green   Seattle
  5.11a
Definitely not 10a if you finish to the left on the crimps. I'd say 11a if you're going by "single hardest move". Apr 16, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10a/b
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10a/b
Hardest of the 5.10a's at this wall, but I think it's a 5.10a/b grade. Start off on the right stemming off the other column - not sure if that is acceptable, but that’s what it looks like most do with the chalk there. The hard part is higher up anyway. Last incut good hold is at your belly while clipping last bolt. Last bolt to the anchor is crimpy - and pumpy for left hand. There is one right crimp and the others are on the left. A little scary, but last bolt is pretty close resulting in a tiny fall. Seems to be the name of the game here where the hardest parts of the routes are at the top. Mar 12, 2019