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Routes in 7 - Zorro Was Here Area

CramJam T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
MeatHead T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
SpamJam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 171 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jeff O'Farrell on Jul 10, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Start on the north west corner and climb the left hand diagonal flaring crack to the top.

Protection

Trad / Toprope

Photos

Spencer Perry
  5.8
Spencer Perry  
  5.8
Just to preface this comment, this climb is probably pretty dangerous due to the quality of the rock for the first fifteen feet. If you are not strong at the 5.8 grade crack climbing it is probably not a good idea to climb this.

When I climbed this, the route was extremely dirty...and probably for a good reason. A lot of the rock in the crack and on the face was extremely brittle and kept snapping off. Plus, the first fifteen feet of the crack is questionable. The crack is between the main rock formation (which is solid) and what seems like a sketchy flake wedged in. Once you get a little higher the crack becomes perfect hands for a couple of feet, and that rock is much more confidence inspiring. My second said he was able to face climb most of the route which made it easier because there are plenty of jugs around the corner. Overall I enjoyed this climb because it was exciting with some pretty good fist and hand jams, but it is probably best to avoid unless you are super comfortable at the grade and don't mind climbing with the feeling that at any moment your foot hold will probably snap off. Definitely an easier climb than Pigs in Space (5.9) May 9, 2016