Type: Trad, Alpine, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: Peter Prandoni, Jenny McKernan, 1976
Page Views: 1,087 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 22, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Tarantula is a nice line. Start with a clean finger crack splitting the slab under the roof. Move left to a wide crack in the right-facing corner. Escape the corner to its left about 15' below the upper left corner of the roof. Pass through a bulge (crux); traverse right to a chimney, and follow easier grooved cracks to the top. A short 3rd class pitch might be needed to reach a downclimb off the back of the rock.

  • This climb goes in a single pitch. The rope drag would be better if you split it up, but there isn't an obvious place for an intermediate belay. Use long runners to minimize rope drag.
  • Mick's book says you can also turn the roof at its upper left end at hard-to-protect 11-.
  • There was more looseness on this climb than I was expecting. I don't think it sees much traffic.

Location

Tarantula follows the thin crack in the center of the Mexican Breakfast formation, then escapes the prominent roof on its left side.

Protection

Cams and nuts up to 3", with extra finger-size cams.

Photos