All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area… > Sandia Mountains > La Cueva Canyon,… > Mexican Breakfast Formation
Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
Routes in Mexican Breakfast Formation
|Mexican Breakfast Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 180 ft|
|FA:||Peter Prandoni, Jenny McKernan, 1976|
|Page Views:||668 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Aug 22, 2009|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionTarantula is a nice line. Start with a clean finger crack splitting the slab under the roof. Move left to a wide crack in the right-facing corner. Escape the corner to its left about 15' below the upper left corner of the roof. Pass through a bulge (crux); traverse right to a chimney, and follow easier grooved cracks to the top. A short 3rd class pitch might be needed to reach a downclimb off the back of the rock.
- This climb goes in a single pitch. The rope drag would be better if you split it up, but there isn't an obvious place for an intermediate belay. Use long runners to minimize rope drag.
- Mick's book says you can also turn the roof at its upper left end at hard-to-protect 11-.
- There was more looseness on this climb than I was expecting. I don't think it sees much traffic.