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Routes in Secondary Face

Back Tree Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dave's Delicate Traverse T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diamond Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hooker, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lots of Nothing S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Penis Pencilman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prow, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tea with the Queen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Roskelley
Page Views: 717 total, 7/month
Shared By: JacobD on May 25, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This climb is pretty short. It starts with an undercling layback aiming left for a sloping rail. From there it goes straight up following crimps and jugs up top.

Location

The route is located on the secondary face. To get here walk left from the parking lot around the main area. Then take another left. (Don Quixote wall would be the right) The climb is on the left side of the wall and the start, marked with the undercling traverse is pretty obvious.

Protection

I used a yellow C3 at the bottom and a clear alien up higher. The bottom could have been protected with a #6 camalot, and the top could be protected with a 2.5 tech friend or #2 camalot. You could protect again at the jugs up top, but they look a little loose.

Photos

Kevin Peter
  5.11c
Kevin Peter  
  5.11c
This is a great route with fun and varied movement. Check it out if youre in the area! Jul 9, 2012