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Layback

5.6, Trad, TR, 32 ft (10 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 51 votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > Central, MA > Crow Hill & Leo… > Crow Hill > 1. End Crags

Description

Layback follows the crack in the short and steep open book towards the left end of the End Crags.

Location

This climb is located in the open book towards the left end of the End Crags. Walk off to the left.

Protection

G/PG - protects well, carry a standard rack. There are trees at the top for anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finishing up Layback. Photo by Ethan Phelps.
[Hide Photo] Finishing up Layback. Photo by Ethan Phelps.
Layback and Tom's Dilemma.
[Hide Photo] Layback and Tom's Dilemma.
Large to medium cams.
[Hide Photo] Large to medium cams.
Takes good hexes.
[Hide Photo] Takes good hexes.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
[Hide Comment] I would recommend some larger size cams for protection on this route. I placed a #2 Black Diamond cam early on and wished I had more of the same size. I made do with my #1 and #3, but I couldn't really find good placements for smaller gear. Oct 6, 2009
Read Januskiewiecz
Taos, NM
 
[Hide Comment] So much fun if this route is dry, you have no excuse not to climb it. Only used #3 and #2 Camalots in that order. Jun 23, 2011
Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] If only this went on for 1000 more feet.... Nov 2, 2013
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] To lead this, you will want a VERY large piece at the bottom. It's almost an off-width down low. I had to downclimb and bail on my lead because I didn't have anything big. I don't even know if a #4 cam would work. Jul 7, 2014
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] So a #4 cam, or even better, a hex/nut of that same size, protects the bottom. Then at the crux (second piece) you can work in a slightly smaller cam or passive.

I like this climb. It's awkward but I would call it a 5.5. I personally do not think this is harder than Tom's Dilemna. Aug 18, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] I don't understand that comment about needing a big piece at all.... Perfectly good #1, #2, and #3 cam placements down low. The climb is perfectly G-rated with a standard rack up to a #3 cam. Nov 5, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
[Hide Comment] My recollection is the FA of this route, perhaps as a TR, was by members of the (then) Lowell Tech (now U Mass Lowell) outing club on the same day as "Tom's Dilemma" was led, circa 1966-67 or so.

BTW - I'm not sure a "Standard Rack" does include a #3 Camalot. I've usually considered a "Std Rack" to 'top out' at a #2, but agree it's a marginal "call". Maybe #3's are standard. I don't think we had anything larger than a 2" bong in '66 - '67, although the larger sizes had come out in the "Valley". Jan 12, 2017
djh860
[Hide Comment] Stemming works quite well here and may be less work that a layback. Sep 2, 2019
Benjamin Child
Waltham
 
[Hide Comment] Such a fun route! Also a great place to practice hand jams and crack techniques. If you get stuck, you can move past a portion with the layback. Ignoring the left face layback and climbing crack only is a very fun option, and the hand placements feel fantastic. Sep 30, 2019
Joey Lucier
Worcester, MA
[Hide Comment] Definitely do not need a #4 or anything that large. I would say a #1, #2, and #3 will get you by, maybe with an extra #2 if you like to place a lot of gear. Aug 3, 2020