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Routes in Alberton Rest Stop

Abe's a Bitch S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Easy Rider S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Emerger S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown(1) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown(2) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown(3) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown(4) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unknown(5) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 489 total, 5/month
Shared By: joshf on Mar 3, 2009
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A thin chossy seam

Location

on the slab side of the cliff, walk down past a sport route. The seam is fairly continuous from the bottom of the cliff to the top. It is left leaning and the first available pro is a small section of 1 inch crack about seven feet off the deck.

Protection

small nuts and cam's, nothing bigger than 1 inch

Photos

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joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
The rock quality here is pretty bad. I jumped on this because i was sick of clipping bolts and it was not really worth it...it may have not been lead before this because the crack needed some cleaning. Not recommended for a beginning trad leader...the pro is shallow and run out. Small nuts and cams are the only protection options. If one gets sketched however, there is usually the option of a short traverse to a bolt. Use the bolted anchor for the 5.6 and 5.8 on this side of the cliff.

Edit: This climb may actually be an R, Two pieces in 55 feet or so. Mar 3, 2009