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Black & Tan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pilsner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,128 total · 9/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Crank on great pockets up through two bolts of sustained climbing to meet the crux at the third. Above jugs abound up to the ledge. Take a load off. Turn the roof using a high heel for the upper crux to clip the chains. Simply Awesome!

Location

Second route from the left. Look for the distinctive cave section up top.

Protection

Bolts, Chains

Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b
I thought this was almost as good as Cutter. Another Last Chance must do Nov 28, 2012
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11b
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11b
I found myself unable to clip the forth bolt until it was at my waist which would have made for a very exciting, but safe, fall. A heady climb on fantastic rock. Nov 27, 2014
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.11a
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.11a
I killed the sandbag reference. I originally thought it was stiff for an 11a, but with time I've realized, this rating is warranted. Dec 3, 2014
This route is called Black And Tan. Crazy fun exit moves. .11a ish
Named for the color of the rock and beer theme. Feb 23, 2016
One of the other routes without the fun heelhook finish is, Ting Zhao.
Beer theme? Feb 23, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.11a
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.11a
Mike, do you know which line is Ting Zhao?

Feb 26, 2016
Noah Kaufman
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Noah Kaufman   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Fantastic route! Warm up. Felt like other 12a's in the canyon. Really really cool. They grey streak just left was also rad at 13b (or c if you're short, imo.) May 1, 2016
Owen S.
Los Alamos
Owen S.   Los Alamos
This route is called Pilsner not Black & Tan, according to Gogas. Black & Tan is the right-most route, which is 11d/12a. Also, I think Noah's (BoulderDoc's) comments relate to the 5.12 route which is second from right, and the "13b" is the 5.12+ in the center of the wall. Mar 13, 2018

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