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Routes in Bouldering Cave

Baseball Problem, The V8 7B
Blockade S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Football Problem V4+ 6B+
Jew Claw, The V9+ 7C
Low low start (aka Desperation) V6 7A
Murray Pinch V10-11 8A
Pegboard V6 7A
Reachy sidepulls? V7-8 7B
V8 V8- 7B
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Marc Beverly and Randall Gann (bolted on lead)
Page Views: 1,592 total, 13/month
Shared By: RiggerMortis on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Start at the right side of the cave where the cave pinches off. More intimidating to look at than to actually do. Climb up the dihedral to the overhang. Passing the second bolt is a scary, but surprisingly easy layback move. Once you get up into the corner under the roof there's a really nice rest to be had with good feet. Take the hand traverse to the right and turn the roof. Standing up on the ledge outside the roof and going for the anchors is a little nervy, too, but again, more of a headgame than anything.

Protection

Quickdraws. 2-Bolt Anchor.

Photos

Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
I think this is one of the better leads at the crag. Definitely scarier looking that it actually turns out to be. Jun 2, 2009
RiggerMortis
Albuquerque New Mexico
  5.9+
RiggerMortis   Albuquerque New Mexico
  5.9+
If you rope solo this as a lead (I did), bring a prussik or two, or maybe an ascender to get positioned to remove the quickdraw under the roof. I spent more time and energy getting my shit back than I did climbing the route. Could have avoided the hassel with a pair of Purcell Prussiks. Hindsight...

There's a really pretty clam fossil embedded in the wall at the hand traverse, too:) Mar 5, 2009
Dave Wachter  
 
Kind of funky up the corner. Plenty of choss, some of it glued. I'd call it hard 5.10 (not 5.10-), but hey, it's Big Block. May 25, 2008