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Triple S

5.8+, Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 274 votes
FA: unknown
W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > S Peak - W Face > S Peak W Face (Main A…

Description

Shipley's Shivering Shimmy is the original name. Perhaps the name was a tad too long to stick. Triple S is one of the best routes at Seneca. Stem, stem, and stem some more until your left leg is completely exhausted; hopefully you'll have reached a rest by then.

Location

Triple S is the large corner where the Wall of a Thousand Pitons connects with the west face. One can rap from the top or continue up several other routes.

Protection

More Cowbell!!! Passive gear (fist size or so in hexes) seems to be the preferred gear for this route. Seriously.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Triple S.  Great rest spot!!
[Hide Photo] Triple S. Great rest spot!!
My favorite move.
[Hide Photo] My favorite move.
Yours truly on Triple S
[Hide Photo] Yours truly on Triple S
Stem it out or get shut down.
[Hide Photo] Stem it out or get shut down.
A legendary corner
[Hide Photo] A legendary corner
Shane leading S.S.S.
[Hide Photo] Shane leading S.S.S.
Panorama of the route
[Hide Photo] Panorama of the route
plenty of relaxing rests from stemming if you have chimney/OW technique
[Hide Photo] plenty of relaxing rests from stemming if you have chimney/OW technique
Me leading up this classic line.
[Hide Photo] Me leading up this classic line.
Gene on Triple S!
[Hide Photo] Gene on Triple S!
Tanya on Triple S
[Hide Photo] Tanya on Triple S
About 20 minutes after this, the skies opened up, and we rapped off in a downpour. It was sunny by the time we got to the parking lot!
[Hide Photo] About 20 minutes after this, the skies opened up, and we rapped off in a downpour. It was sunny by the time we got to the parking lot!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] It's all about stemming. Seems very reasonable within the grade if you stem it. Also, I like the climbing, but it's not a 4-star at Seneca -- too short. Jan 19, 2007
Rick M
Annapolis, Maryland
 
[Hide Comment] it's worthy of 4 stars and a tough lead for the grade Jul 19, 2007
[Hide Comment] First real big fall I ever took. Probably in early eighties fell about sixty feet. Dec 26, 2007
Ladd Raine
Plymouth, NH
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] 60 feet huh? Must have not placed from the crux to the anchors then fell, wow. Dec 26, 2007
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] No question, this is a Seneca classic. Jul 21, 2008
[Hide Comment] Super route. Crack and face climb that will get your blood going. Feb 6, 2009
dinglestyle
Catonsville, MD
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Easy 5.9 rating when compared to other climbs in the area like Tomato, The Burn and Alcoa. In my experience as a climber whenever I see a plus symbol it means sandbag rating Especially any east coast route that was established pre 5.10 era. This is classic Seneca at it’s best still, a test piece in the mind of many weekend warriors. Feb 20, 2009
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
[Hide Comment] This is the most sustained pitch of 5.8 climbing I have ever done. It's like the forces of Nature collaborated to create this especially for climbers. Really amazing. Jun 1, 2009
oldbull
Laguna Beach, CA
[Hide Comment] Ahh...fond memories of this climb. Absolutely stellar!!! Not friendly for those with bad technique, but certainly a gift that keeps on giving. Your calves will be scorching by the time you hit the top. Lots of gear. After climbing another 10+ years, it does strike me that sandbag may be a good description of this climb. I can't think of too many 8's that are more consistent or harder. Jul 14, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I had no idea quartzite could get this polished. Oct 19, 2010
Caleb Efta
Golden, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Good climb. New to trad, so it was a hard climb for me. It sucks in the gear though. I used 7 or 8 nuts and only 2 cams.

Consistent too, no real break in the climbing. Oct 28, 2010
[Hide Comment] It's been a while... The Gendarme was still standing when I did this route! I have now climbed all over the country, Josh, Yosemite, Red Rocks, the list goes on. But Triple S is still THE route, best classic route I have ever climbed, don't miss it! Back when I climbed it it was a 5.7. Dang that was a hard 7! Apr 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] So much stemming that my feet were shaking! Chimney and stemming and pushing! yeah! May 13, 2012
[Hide Comment] I led this, again, on my 56th birthday. It seems to get harder every year, as the rock is just getting more and more polished. You can place gear everywhere, though; and, what a great belay stance at the top!! Sep 6, 2012
[Hide Comment] Love this climb. Stemming and even some chimney moves for rests are the key. Solid protection is everywhere, so don't let it scare you off. Some thinly protected Seneca 5.7s are more intimidating than this. It doesn't get much better. Oct 24, 2012
BrianWS
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Nothing on this climb is harder than 5.8... but not much on it is any easier than 5.8, either. Very sustained. Sep 9, 2013
Emil Briggs
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I loved the route and while it wasn't a gimme I didn't think it was particularly sandbagged. As long as you have decent stem technique that is. If you don't it's going to feel really hard. Nov 12, 2013
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! There are lots of opportunities for chimney moves, and they provide good rests. I mostly placed small to medium cams, nothing larger than a #3 C4.

There was an accident on this climb in 2001. publications.americanalpine…

A climber fell and caught his foot on a chockstone. That seems like a hazard on blocky corner climbs like Triple S. Be careful! Sep 8, 2015
Jonathan Neville
Red River Gorge, KY
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know of any good routes that lead to the proper summit from the top of Triple S? Apr 5, 2016
John Burkhart
Morgantown, WV
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this yesterday onsight. What a fantastic route! It never lets up, there are some decent stances but they are strenuous. This route does not test your finger strength but it does test your perseverance and foot strength. Good gear. I clipped a fixed nut (looked very recent)- my partner wasn't able to clean it but we were getting cooked in the sun. If someone gets a chance give cleaning that nut a shot and it should be able to be removed. Sep 26, 2016
Andrew G
Pittsburgh, PA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I have nothing to say that hasn't already been said about the first pitch. The second pitch is a stark contrast-- loose and a bit awkward, but certainly easier. Follow the line straight up and it spits you out right near Traffic Jam notch. Jun 23, 2017
Chris Nicholson
Montgomery, OH
[Hide Comment] It's the sustained nature that pushes the envelope. Easily a 5.9+ elsewhere. It is unrelenting but a great classic. And wonderful for sandbagging! Jan 29, 2020
Eunny Jang
Washington D.C.
 
[Hide Comment] Absolutely phenomenal. Gear any and everywhere from #4 on down. Eats up stoppers and hexes. Note for the short - at 5’2” I mostly found the left side stems to be too far away to be useful; I jammed in the crack and used edges on the right side instead. So fun and sustained. Mar 10, 2021