Avg: 3.5 from 442
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From the Andrew's Glacier trail, you will see the Sharkstooth to the south. Hike up the Gash, which is the large boulderfield between you and the rock. As you get near, there will be a long fin of rock coming off the northeast ridge and heading, guess which direction...northeast. Climb to the east of that and scramble up on some large ledges for the first pitch.
P1. The first pitch can start in several places that are all about 5.4-5.6. I'd say we ran about 160 feet of rope on the first pitch. There are probably several places you could rig a belay.
P2. The second pitch was similar to the first 5.4-5.6 climbing, about the same distance and straight up the northeast ridge. Not a lot of zigzagging on this route. After some initial 5.5 climbing a long section of 5.easy climbing leads to a crux layback flake (<10ft). Belay on top of the flake. On this pitch the terrain gets easier if you stay left, but avoid the temptation and go straight up. You will eventually see the flake. Alternatively if you veer left a bit you can find a good belay stance on a dirt/grass covered lege below and left of the flake about 30-50 feet and save the flake for the next pitch.
P3. The third pitch goes 5.6 in the guidebook. Startup up a left-facing dihedral, and go more or less straight up, or possibly slightly right along a system of left facing dihedrals. The crux is just before the belay. 100-150'.
P4. Go up and slightly right along 5.easy terrain. Just before the end of the pitch there's a nice right slanting finger crack. Reach the first ledge/bench on the route and build the belay on the far side next to or in the wide crack. This pitch could likely be linked with the next with a 60m.
P5. Pitch 5 starts up a wide crack, but I hung out on the face for most this, because I think offwidths are about as fun as getting beaten with a rubber hose. The climbing is a lot easier on these last two pitches. Also, the route is completely obvious here as well. The 5th pitch ends on another, somewhat smaller ledge. More people on the Petit...if only they knew what they were missing over here.
P6. On the 6th pitch, there was little more loose rock and hollow holds, so be a little more cautious. From the top of #6, it's a very simple scramble to the summit. Ok, I was roped up, so what?, but honestly, it's probably Class 2 to the top from here. So, some may consider it 5 pitches.
The top has a great view of the surrounding area. Also, a little less comforting, look down through the boulders on the summit on the west side. I swear I saw daylight through there. Anyway, head southeast from the summit and down a little gully to rap rings. There are 3 50-60 meter raps to the top of the Gash here. The rap rings looked pretty good. Don't forget to bring a second rope or you'll be downclimbing. Also, there seems to be a lot of loose rock that gets knocked down when you toss your ropes on each rappel so be prepared to shout "ROCK!!" often to the people below and watch for more of it when you pull your ropes. That's it. Down the Gash to the trail. Hope you enjoy it. Also, I gave this a grade III, because it took us 13 hours, but we took a 2 mile detour by going to the south side first and then backtracking around to the north side. It's probably somewhere between a II and a III.
For an efficient party:
Base to summit time: 4 hours.
Approach: 3 hours.
Descent from summit to base: 90 minutes.
Slow or inexperienced parties should increase these by 50%. Experienced parties should shoot for better time.
A standard rack.
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Westminster, Colorado
Evergreen, CO
Westminster, Colorado
We used the rap just below the S end of the summit block with 3 pins (one is blue), 180' (though the end of this is 3rd class with big exposure) to a big block with multiple slings and an old pin. Here, we rapped 195' (past 2 less solid appearing rap slings) to a rap station on the R side of the gully with a pin, chockstone, and a Wild Country Rock. From here, it was short rap down to the Gash that a Marmot easily scrambled up and past. Jul 20, 2002
Boulder, CO
This is a great route, although there is no single line and routefinding can be tricky. But I think it deserves classic status. Oct 31, 2002
The last pitch is easy but memorable...truly spectacular.
Check those rappel pins before you weight them. Albert Ellingwood himself may have bashed those in.... May 26, 2003
Boulder, CO
Santa Fe, NM
Around Boulder, CO
Then again... should you climb alpine with a single rope? Depends on you and your skill level, but in any case it is a separate question to consider. Jul 30, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
Gear Lost:We started under the fixed rap slings (a red and a super faded orange). About half a rope length above the slings there should be a #2 and a #3 C4 Camalot with a 4 foot red and white runner connecting them. Another half rope length up there should be a 3 piece anchor with a red and pink tricam and a #1 C4 Camalot. Above this is the crux, and where I bailed off a fixed Alien (or Alien look-alike). Above the anchor and below the fixed Alien we lost a #.75 Camalot (not C4) a #0 and #1 TCU. Also lost but not as important are #s 2, 4, and 7 Wallnuts.
Anything returned is appreciated.
Noah Duncan Aug 18, 2005
Golden, CO
Denver, CO
Trip Report: leachfam.com/securearea/1st…
Photos: leachfam.com/securearea/sub…
Movie: leachfam.com/securearea/1mo… Jul 6, 2006
Boulder, Colorado
This route has excellent position and has good, sustained climbing at the grade (5.5 & 6) the entire way. The crux was probably a short layback off a flake on P2. There is loose rock, but generally solid. In the crack 10' off the ground on the last roped pitch, beware of a large, oblong stone. It came off when I touched it and was in my lap. I was able to settle it back where it had been, only because I had a good stance, or I would be on crutches right now.
I would do this route again tomorrow under similiar conditions...real nice climb. Jul 16, 2006
Vanlife
We used crampons in the morning to get to the first pitch but the snow is very soft in the afternoon. Still lots of snow up there which makes for great glissading at the end of the day! Jun 29, 2009
Boulder
Evergreen, CO
Evergreen, CO
Westminster, CO
Lyons, CO
Big South Fork, TN
Denver
Big South Fork, TN
Boulder, CO
Golden, CO
Estes Park, CO
It bears repeating to be careful of loose rock!
The best bivy spots are located in a flat(ish) spot about a quarter mile into The Gash after leaving the main trail. Look for a huge boulder, and you will find several good spots scattered around it.
We did the rappel with a 60 meter rope and it worked alright, but I would recommend bringing some extra webbing. I had to build my own rap station after the second rappel. Aug 22, 2011
Golden, CO
Golden, CO
Lakewood, CO
Climbed yesterday in 12.5 h c2c. Left the trail head at 3 (we had to drive back to Texas that day) and started climbing a few minutes before 7. We had a quick pace until we reached the gash and got off route in the darkness causing our scramble up the talus to be unnecessarily brutal.
At the end of the first rope stretching pitch I had ventured too far to the right causing us to have to do a 30m traverse up and left to gain the standard route. Try to tend left at the end of the first pitch to avoid this nuisance. Overall, however route finding is very easy on this climb as long as you have a decent since of where you're going.
We continued up on beautiful granite and spectacular exposure to the summit about 3:15 after we started the first pitch. We spent 45 min on top taking pictures and enjoying the breathtaking views of RMNP.
About the rappel:
We easily located the first rap anchor which consists of about 3 old pitons and 2 nuts. The webbing connecting all these pieces looks a bit old so we left another sling on one of the pitons and called it good.
A 57m rap takes to the next anchor which consists of a slung block (and a piton or nut I can't remember which) Though the block looks a bit smaller than we would have liked, it is wedged deeply behind a huge chunk of the cliff and seemed pretty darn secure.
Another 60m rap brings you to a large ledge where you can scramble over to the next anchor on the climbers right side of the gully. This anchor consists of some pitons and a nut and seemed pretty good though the webbing looked like it could use replacing.
From here, a 29m rappel will bring you nicely to the top of the Gash.
Also, the marmots here are vicious vermon. They ate most of the cork off our trekking poles and nibbled a bit on my guide tennis (they carried one about 15 ft away from where I had placed it. Jul 18, 2012
Went up on 8/5. On the way down, we cleaned up the rap stations a bit. We backed up webbing at the first station (the three pins looked good, the nuts are no longer there). The second section looked good. We also backed up the third station (nut, chockstone, and pin looked good). Note that the third rap station is a bit hard to see (the cord blends into the rock). It's a full 60 meters down from the 2nd station and then the 3rd rap station is to the rappeller's right (towards the NE Ridge). Didn't check the intermediate stations for single-rope raps. Aug 6, 2012
Arvada, Co.
FEMA Region VIII
Detroit, MI
Does anyone know if this large, right-facing dihedral (green) is part of the standard Northeast Ridge route? It kinda matches the P3 description, but I thought it felt much harder than 5.6 when I climbed it. Just curious. Jun 30, 2013
Erie, PA
Edwards, CO
Fayetteville WV,
You don't need rps or a #4 Camalot. The wide crack has chockstones to tie off. There are a number of small fixed nuts in parallel cracks indicating that Lowe Balls could be helpful. Never placed so many offset Aliens.
For us, it was less about the technical climbing more about the full experience of this rugged and beautiful place. 3 days c2c. Aug 15, 2014
The High Country
Arvada, CO
Poncha Springs, CO
The rap anchors seem to constantly change looking at all the comments. On 9/1/14, the first rappel anchor consisted only of the 3 old pitons and one rap ring, but by 9/2/14 there is a fourth piece and a locker. To get to the first rap station - scramble down and right into the gully. It's at a logical spot - where the cliff drops off. There is a slung boulder as you start to downclimb into the gully that you can clip to stay on belay to the rappel station - clip it or don't fall. We rapped on double 70m ropes, got down in two rappels with about 30 feet of 3rd/4th class downclimbing at the bottom. Lots of rap stations down the gully. Sep 4, 2014
Fort Collins, CO
I suggest bringing extra small gear (<#1 Camalot) as the protectable features on most of the route are somewhat compact. Be cautious about nut placements as the cracks are mostly irregular.
Test your holds--there are a lot of size-large flakes, chocks, etc. that look more solid than they really are. Sep 28, 2014
Boulder
If you make sure you start P2 right below the inset where there's a red sling and climb straight up, you'll then climb P3 as described in the guidebook (i.e. starting on a L-facing dihedral). P3 was our favorite pitch of the whole climb.
With 60m ropes and a bit of help from your belayer, it's possible (and worth it) to link P3 and P4. Sep 8, 2015
The rappel info from J-K seems about right. We completed it with one 70m (and it could be completed with one 60m) like this:
Rap 1: in the alcove very near the summit: 3 fixed pins (2 ancient ring-angles!) and a stopper. Rap 100' to a terraced grassy ledge. Watch your ends!
Walk 50' down the hill on grassy ledges (Class 2), and find a slung block and fixed pin anchor.
Rap 2a: rap 100' to an intermediate rappel station consisting of a slung horn (10' skier's right of plumb line). This station could use a backup nut and sling.
Rap 2b: rap 70' to sloping ledge. Walk 20' skier's left to the fixed-pin + stopper + chockstone anchor.
Rap 3: rap 75' to the East Col.
If you only bring one rope, it's a good idea to bring extra webbing + rap rings, since the rappel anchor seem to change frequently (judging from the comments here).
From the col, we scrambled down the rock on skier's left on the gully. Eventually, we could go no further due to cliffs + snow, so we rappelled 100' from a slung block across the snow and back to the base. You can get a good look at this last portion of the descent from the base of the climb. Jun 20, 2016
Perchtoldsdorf, AT
Lakewood, CO
P1. R-facing dihedral and belay on a great ledge. P2 was a little spicier than 5.6-- went up a short, R-facing dihedral with a nice finger crack. Some fun, thin face moves. Back to easier 5.fun. Traversed left to join the "standard route" on some knobs and set a belay right underneath a juggy roof on a L-facing dihedral.
Was able to pass 2 other parties by starting this way and climbing quickly. If there are a lot of other groups, just pick a start and go! Descent with a 70m rope was super easy. Some downclimbing on grassy ledges. Leave the #4 Camalot at home. Yellow, orange, and red Metolius mastercams were the pieces of the day! Jul 11, 2016
Boulder, Colorado
If you lost a solar charger at Sharkstooth, DM me and describe what brand and model it is, and I can meet you to return it. Jun 22, 2017
Denver, CO
Jacksonville Beach, FL
Fort Collins, CO
Broomfield, CO
Pitches 3 & 4 can be easily combined with a 60m rope with minimal rope drag. Recommend setting up your anchor about 8 ft below and on the left side of the big bench at the top of P4. There is a nice, little, flat ledge you can sit on with a great crack above to put your anchor pieces in. This keeps you from having to pull the rope up over the edge of the bench and makes communication with your second easier. Belaying for P5 from this location worked fine too - just flip around on the ledge and sit facing the other direction with a fairly clean rope line to P5.
Important note on the approach:
We did the approach in the dark, and paying careful attention, took the correct turn off for Andrew's Glacier Trail, but later missed a key sharp left hand turn. After you make the right hand turn onto Andrew's Glacier Trail (immediately after the stream crossing - the trail starts up along a rock slab on the bank of the stream), you need to take a sharp left at the sign for Andrew's Creek camp area (sign says "Andrew's Creek Stoves Only"). The sharp left turn was less than about 1/4 mile from the start of the trail. If you continue straight on the trail at this point, you will go into a camp area, and the trail gradually fades away if you continue on past the campsites. In the dark, we could not see the sharp left, wandered around for a bit, and finally had to wait for first light. If you get to the campsites, you have left the main trail and need to go back to the sign and make a hard right to head up to The Gash. Sep 27, 2018
Steamboat Springs, CO
Denver, CO
As of this posting, there were 3 rappel stations down the East Gully with new nylon slings and accessible with one 70m rope. We brought two ropes and I would only bring one if I did it again. If you bring one rope, you'll have to do some 3rd-4th class downclimbing after the 3rd rap, which is easy compared to the all the downclimbing we did to get down The Gash. Jul 29, 2019
Follow OP's instructions to find the 1st rappel - black webbing on 3 pins. Rap to the end of rope and just down and to rap'ers left will be a slung rock backed up with pin (sling around rock is blue). Because station is below you, there is a slight "downclimb" although it is probably easy Class 2 and is not exposed. You will be on a series of grass ledges that are easily navigable.
2nd rappel from slung rock: just before end of your rope, look right. There will be three pins in a vertical crack with olive colored cord.
3rd rap: from olive cord, look down and right again, and the last rap can be seen - black and red webbing/cord around a chockstone, nut, and pin. Much shorter rap than the previous rappels.
Last rap: from the black/ red cord and webbing, rappel to the east col, and walk back to grab your shoes!
(This could possibly be done with a single 60m, but it would be pushing it and might require a tad bit of downclimbing). Aug 25, 2019
We missed the faint climber’s trail that splits off up The Gash (this avoids quite a bit of extra rock hopping) - it’s right near the second restoration sign on the Andrew’s Glacier Trail (there are two signs about 10-20 feet from each other, on the left as you’re heading up). The faint trail/cairn path takes you right by the bivy site.
Excellent climb! Tricams came in handy often. Aug 2, 2020
Colorado Springs, CO
Colorado
Broomfield, CO
Rap 1: rap from 2 bolts ~35m to grassy ledge. A 60m will get you to an easy short 5.1 downclimb if you wish.
Rap 2: go ~40' below and rappeller's left of landing from rap 1 (3rd Class); and rap from 2 bolts ~35m down gully to another ledge.
Rap 3: rap from 2 bolts 60m to the top of East Col (or 35m to rap station 4).
(optional) Rap 4: rap off a good BD angle, a hammered stopper, a chockstone, and a soft iron ring pin in the right wall of the gully ~25m to top of East Col.
(See the topo: cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/cl… ) Aug 18, 2020
Boulder, CO
Atlanta, GA
Boulder, CO
San Francisco, CA
Other notes: I found it easy to get off route from P2 to the start of P3. I must've ended up veering a bit right of route and ended up at a set of right-facing dihedrals that user A0hero describes (that was def harder than 5.6). If you see a bunch of right-facing dihedrals, you're probably off route. To the left was a bunch of red webbing and red cord where plenty of people have clearly bailed when they, too, realized they were off route. You can rappel a short distance to a visible ledge below which brings you back on route, right below the lieback flake crux of P2 in the route description.
To confirm what others have said, you can do 4 rappels on a single 70m to get off the climb now, no problem.
All in all really fun, sustained Class 5 climbing on good rock! Oct 10, 2021
Sandpoint, ID
Found the lieback flake to be easier than expected (jugs all over the outside of the flake to use instead of completely committing to a lieback), but the P2 finger crack was more committing than I expected. Really cool! May 17, 2022
Leadville, CO
Boulder
Lebanon, NH
We could not find the first rap station. I descended into the east gully toward the saddle to look for it but came to Class 5 terrain, so instead we slung a boulder at the summit and left gear, which with one 70m rope got us to the same scramble down to the 2nd station that someone took a photo of (easy terrain). At the risk of diminishing the adventure, perhaps someone could post a similar beta to find the first station (or maybe its obvious and we were just dense or dehydrated). Sep 11, 2023
Boulder
41 years ago I tried the Direct North Face route (got hailed off midway up) and am curious why this route isn’t listed? Jul 13, 2024
Colorado Springs, CO
Lakewood, CO
It took us a total of 12 hours car-to-car.
3.5 hours approach (with a good effort to be fast despite the heinous Gash).
4.5 hours to climb the route on a weekend. We were 2nd on the route and only got hung up twice behind one party.
1 hour to rap + get back to base of climb.
I expected the P3 layback to be the crux and it may be physically, but the mental crux of the route is the 5th pitch in my opinion. From the offwidth crack, you’ve got about 20ish feet of airy runout climbing - easy enough but still trippy. We scrambled P6 to the summit.
I made the mistake of following the party above me on P3, up then veering slightly right onto a finger crack which was okay in and of itself but led to 5.8/5.9 terrain with limited protection. Stay straight or slightly left, on the more apparently easy climbing.
All the rap stations were super obvious, and a single 70m rope reached no problem.
We ascended by heading straight across the snowfield and up the notch/chute, on the right side but opted to descend the grassy ledges and felt it was way easier. Sep 12, 2024
Hike to bivy 3 hrs, hike to base 1.5hrs, climb 6 hrs, and descent 1.5 hrs.
We ended up climbing it in 5 pitches, which helped with climb time for a 3 party, but that did add a lot to rope drag. I can't exactly say if we followed the intended route, especially for the first 2 pitches. I think we combined pitches 4 and 5.
For the descent, we combined raps 2 & 3, although it /barely/ reached the 4th optional belay, which we took due to the steep downscramble. The 4th optional looked very clean, no tat: very new looking webbing and cord, appreciate the maintenance.
Probably should have expected it, but there is still some snow crossing on approach through The Gash. I would have appreciated microspikes or something for some grip. Or maybe I [definitely] need better boots.
The climb was nice, the 3rd pitch was excellent, and the flake crux seems like it could easily be avoided with one or two face moves/feet - unless we were off route. The beginning pitch(es) seemed we were too far right, there are a few lines that can be seen from the base, which was a bit much for our routefinding skills, but the buttress narrows to push you on route. Jul 15, 2025