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Routes in Crack House, The

Project T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Toxic Residue T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: you, perhaps
Page Views: 364 total, 2/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Sep 27, 2002
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This project is an overhanging and outward flaring off-width crack located on the right side of the Crack House. Bruce Bindner placed the bolts on top of it to keep people from using the loose flake for pro, or anything else. He also recommends that the route be named "Ebola" once someone sends it "because it is sick," and because the skin contusions you're sure to receive are similiar to those of an ebola victim after some internal organs have burst.

Protection

There's a couple of bolts with chains fixed at the top of the climb. To set up a top rope from them, rap down from a trad anchor atop the Crack House, also put a directional cam in to keep yourself from swinging into the slab behind you in the event that you fall. Leading this climb requires a 9" and 6" cam, as well as perhaps a 4" piece. Finally, there is an enormous loose flake atop the crack, left of the anchors that you probably shouldn't even touch unless you're intending to kill your belayer.

Photos

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Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
I hate offwidth!

I hate offwidth! I'm not strong enough to do this damn route! Sep 30, 2002