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Head Case

5.8, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 39 votes
FA: Todd Swain, Donette Swain, George Reid, and Catriona Reid, 1994
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Willow Spring > Case Face
Warning Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is located in the middle of the Case Face and climbs through the white lower half of the cliff up into dark varnish. Mostly good face climbing, protected by nuts and cams in the varnish where possible, bolts where not. The beginning is a little weird, with awkward moves to get to the first bolt. Since the protection looked pretty marginal from the ground, we toproped this climb by first climbing Space Case, then doing a second pitch up and right to get to the Head Case anchors. Once we got on the face, protection opportunities were more obvious.

Protection

Several bolts and small to medium gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andy Hansen through the crux into the upper section of Head Case. Photo: Gina Matranga.
[Hide Photo] Andy Hansen through the crux into the upper section of Head Case. Photo: Gina Matranga.
Upper section of Head Case with some really fun climbing!
[Hide Photo] Upper section of Head Case with some really fun climbing!
Jared TR'ing Head Case
[Hide Photo] Jared TR'ing Head Case
the moves getting to the first bolt are not trivial (given the crux grade)
[Hide Photo] the moves getting to the first bolt are not trivial (given the crux grade)
The Head Case face
[Hide Photo] The Head Case face
Right at the crux on Head Case
[Hide Photo] Right at the crux on Head Case

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The route has four bolts, but is well protected by slinging a horn/plate between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and then a 0.3 Camalot or Green Alien in a horizontal above the last bolt. Nov 12, 2006
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly good/fun route; crux is right after clipping the first bolt and is a little tough for 5.8 IMO; but overall its probably a good grade for this fun route. May 24, 2007
Tim Shea
Fort Lauderdale, FL
[Hide Comment] Very nice climb, 4 bolts, nice face climbing 80 ft. Sandstone balls like on "lotta Balls" Probably 5.8+. The first 25 ft is heady. Shut anchor. Nov 9, 2008
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] It is not unreasonable to lead this on only bolts. Good movement, great holds and quality stone. Jan 31, 2012
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
[Hide Comment] No need for extra protection. The shuts are a little rusted by the bolt and the right one is a little loose, but felt fairly solid. I supplemented with a small nut up and to the left of the anchors. Nov 26, 2012
josh holcomb
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best sport climbs in all of RR for the grade. Nov 22, 2014
Harris Kashtan
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Fun climb with some interesting moves. Not sure if some holds broke off but I would say the crux probably goes at 5.9. Two sets of anchors at the top, one are older glue ins, one are new bolts without rap rings. Ended up rapping off of hard case which was modern bolts and rap rings. May 8, 2023