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Head Case
5.8,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 39
votes
FA: Todd Swain, Donette Swain, George Reid, and Catriona Reid, 1994
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> Willow Spring
> Case Face
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There
are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The
Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations:
Black Velvet Canyon,
The Hamlet,
Kraft Mountain Area,
The Gallery, and
The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This route is located in the middle of the Case Face and climbs through the white lower half of the cliff up into dark varnish. Mostly good face climbing, protected by nuts and cams in the varnish where possible, bolts where not. The beginning is a little weird, with awkward moves to get to the first bolt. Since the protection looked pretty marginal from the ground, we toproped this climb by first climbing Space Case, then doing a second pitch up and right to get to the Head Case anchors. Once we got on the face, protection opportunities were more obvious.
Protection
Several bolts and small to medium gear.
[Hide Photo] Andy Hansen through the crux into the upper section of Head Case. Photo: Gina Matranga.
[Hide Photo] Upper section of Head Case with some really fun climbing!
[Hide Photo] Jared TR'ing Head Case
[Hide Photo] the moves getting to the first bolt are not trivial (given the crux grade)
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