PRINT: Rock Climb British Airways, Joshua Tree National Park

British Airways

5.11a R, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 74 votes
FA: Randy Vogel, Charles Cole, and Darryl Nakahira, 1982
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Echo Rock > Echo Rock - S Face

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Start 15 feet right of Pope's Crack behind a clump of yuccas, and climb the left-facing flared corner with an intermittent crack/seam in it's back (5.10) to it's end - pro is decent but the 1st placement is quite high. Above, continue up a steep slab with two bolts that passes along the right edge of a small roof. The climbing in the upper section (5.11a) is characterized by thin edges that require both delicate footwork and thoughtful movement.

A good route in a sheltered location that gets lots of sun for those cold and windy days. The somewhat runout nature of the route means it gets led infrequently, but a toprope is easily rigged by climbing Pope's Crack as the rappel for that route takes you right over this route.

Location

Located on the far right side of Echo Rock, this is the first route right of Pope's Crack and requires a bit of scrambling through talus to reach the base.

Protection

Gear to 1.5 inches, 2 bolts (3/8"), bolted anchor/rap

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber on British Airways. 2 climbers at the top of Pope's Crack. I think February 2003 or possibly 2004.

Nearing top of British Airways

Another one of climbers on British Airways, Pope's Crack to the left. Circa 2004.

Mony S. on British Airways

Mony pulling the small roof on British Airways. submitted by 5.10b4me

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.11a

So named, because on the second ascent (done the day after the FA) a certain well-known British climber took a winger on the route. Jul 16, 2002

Randy
Lassitude 33

5.11a

Having lead this route on several occasions, I find the crux, both technical and mental to be above the last bolt where you have to get your feet high on some pretty greasy holds. BTW: this is where Jonny Woodward (being rather inattentively belayed by Maria Cranor-think large half-arc of slack) took the famous 35+ foot whipper. The name for the route became immediately obvious. Jan 18, 2003

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.11a

The runout section at the bottom is considerably more easy than the top of the route, maybe 5.10a or b?. I TR'd it though. The 2 cruxes are the changing directions move above the 1st bolt and the last move on the high step. I did this move in quite could weather and would not have described it as 'greasy.' Josh 5.11a face climbing is challenging for me. I got on this route on TR expecting 11d as printed in the Vogel book and kept waiting for a crux. One never came. I lowered off shaking my head and told my partner it felt like 11a. Only upon cross-referencing the index did I descover that it was indeed a simple misprint. Jan 5, 2004

Bo Johnston

We top roped this route after climbing "Pope's Crack". The Vogel guide has it rated 5.11d but I'd side with the 11a rating; only for the fact that I was able to climb it! Feb 6, 2005

Randy
Lassitude 33

5.11a

Lead this route last weekend again. The rock on the lower section is quite solid (so many TR ascents) and it is a 3 of 5 star route (imsbo). At about 20+ feet up the botton section you can get an excellent 1 - 1.5 inch cam placement. Just below the 1st bolt are thin nut/cam placements. Still runnout at the beginning and the top is thin and greasy.

The rating in the old guide was a typo (it was originally rated 10d).

Dec 3, 2005

Jon Clark
Planet Earth

5.11a R

you can get a 1/2" cam in about 15+ feet up. Nov 18, 2011

MikeP ROWCC

5.11a R

I followed this one. Be solid climbing 5.10b to get to the first gear placement. Fun little step crossover above first bolt. Crux comes after the roof and last bolt. Two little smearing edges for your feet and thin finger tip holds. Moving off of those was tricky. Feb 19, 2013

Mark Rolofson

5.11a/b R

I climbed this route in Spring 1988, but it has always stuck in my mind, as it got my full attention. I was thankful to have Aliens to protect the shallow crack start. Aliens had just been introduced to the climbing world at the time. I was selling them in the campground, since I was the rep for Colorado Custom Hardware, that invented and manufactured them. The giant yucca at the base would have been like landing on a set of swords. For most of the pitch, I felt in control and wasn't very worried about falling. The real excitement was the crux run-out above the last bolt. I remember it was a scary 1/4" diameter bolt with a short rust streak around it, so I didn't want to fall. After standing on the small sloping foothold and climbing up and down close to the bolt, my feet were getting tired, so I downclimbed back to the ground. After a good rest, I climbed back to my highpoint, and finally committed to the insecure slab crux with tiny holds, above the bolt. Once I was above the bolt there was no turning back and no time for doubt. I was psyched I didn't fall, especially because the guidebook rated the climb .10c! What a sandbag. What a great route! With 3/8" bolts the climb would seem much saner. Dec 19, 2021