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Tent Peg
5.7,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 93
votes
FA: Royal and Liz Robbins, 1964
S Dakota
> Custer SP
> Tenpins/Switchb…
> Tent Peg
Description
This route starts at the high point between Superpin and Tent Peg. Climb the obvious wide crack. At the end of the crack, traverse right around to the other side of the spire. This is easy at first then more difficult (use the force if necessary--it worked for me). The route finishes up a short but unprotected face.
Be mindful of the way your rope is running. You'll need to place a long runner when you least want to.
A one rope rappel will get you back to the ground.
Protection
Medium to large cams for the beginning and smaller pieces for the traverse. There is a bolt anchor at the top.
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Nuts and large cams (Camalot #3) down low in the crack. Small cams (Camalot .3-.4) in the seam to protect the final face climb. Solid anchors.
Jun 29, 2005
[Hide Comment] The climb may also start from the West side up some rather dank and mossy cracks for 10 or 15 meters. This involves a 5.8 move to stand up, then 5.6 from there. You climb up to get on the better and cleaner rock where the formation starts looking like a pin & where the route officially begins. This beginning may require some judgment and skill to protect and climb safely. Despite its 5.7 rating it is probably not the best lead for a beginner. The top has room for 2 "Au Cheval."
Jul 30, 2006
[Hide Comment] This was my first trad lead! Great to be out in early March...already my 6th needles climbing day of the year. I slung the first flake and ran it out to the top, would have felt more comfortable had I put at least one nut before the final arete. I placed a small nut, a #3 and #4 cam in the crack and single length runner on the first flake.
Mar 5, 2007
[Hide Comment] Climbed the Tent Peg, but started on the opposite (North) side in a wide crack that faces the Hairy Pin. Climbed up, then traversed around to the left to join the same final runout to the top. Fun climb, with terrific exposure heading to the top, and a super small summit.
Jul 28, 2009
[Hide Comment] I started on the East side, between the two spires super pin & tent peg. A narley crack with 2 small trees leads up to the better second half. Then up to the beautiful finish. I used cams 1-4 and nuts. Two bolt anchor.
May 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] We followed the current guidebook and started on the north side, a weird wide crack to a left traverse and finish on the obvious thin seam to the summit tower. The seam felt stiff for 5.7, but it's all there. A conservative rack for on sighting would be a selection of cams to four inches and a fair assortment of small to medium wires for the seam. Be forewarned, the last 20 feet offer no protection on glorious 5.6 nubbins, though is quite obvious from below. Best to place your final piece as high as possible before committing to the PEG. An awesome and worthy route!
Oct 24, 2023
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