K12 Rock Climbing

• Sun or shade... your choice. SE face has morning sun, NW face has morning shade. This situation flipflops at about 2:30 pm.

If you are looking for easily accessible 5.10s with a nice flat hangout... The SE face of K12 may be just the thing. It has 4 5.10s, a 5.9 and a 5.11. And a 4 minute approach.  The morning shade, slightly overhanging NW face has 2 x 5.10s, 2 x 5.11s and a 12.

K12 is a free-standing pinnacle composed of 4 sub-pinnacles jammed together.  The whole formation runs from NE to SW.  The 4 sub-pinnacles (NE to SW) are named: Pre, Middle, Junior and High.

Some historical notes: Back in 1997 Joe Shiefman and I put up 2 new routes on the Phallus.  We also looked at this pinnacle (K12), but since there was no easy way to the top we passed on doing anything.  In Steiger's 1985 guide this pinnacle may be called "The Swan's Neck".  It's hard to see any kind of "neck" but Steiger is probably refering to this pinnacle.  (Update: Steiger and I talked about "Swan's neck" when we climbed "Can't Touch This". It is on a neck-like formation. We agreed that this must be what he was referring to in his old guide. It is now a sport route called "Baker's Half Dozen"... 5.7) Steiger said "5.6" and "if you must" for Swan's neck.  

The only other routes in this area mentioned in Steiger's guide are: Phallus 5.8 R (now called South Ridge) and Magic Mushroom March 5.6 X. These routes are NOT on K12.

After we did a few routes on the sunny SE face of K12, we turned our attention to the NW side. I assumed that I was the first person on top of this pinnacle, but as I was drilling a TR anchor for Hot For Teacher I found 2 ancient 1/4 inch bolts nearby.  Someone had tried to TR the route (or something like it) 40 or more years ago !  Looking down I could also see a 1/4 incher on top of the pillar about halfway up Studly Haul.  Who did this and when ?  I asked Ray Ringle when he was out checking our work and he had no knowledge or memory of this area at all.  Maybe Steiger will chime in.